summitseeker Posted January 2, 2002 Posted January 2, 2002 Apologies... I know there is a post here that has some info. on this, but I can't find it and need to get back to work, so here's my report. We climbed there on New Year's Day. Another party was on the central flow, so we were relegated to lesser flows. The central flow looks fairly in, although I wouldn't say it's fat. The other flows were pretty thin IMHO -- they can go, depending on your level of comfort. I had to back off one via a long traverse as I simply ran out of ice. What followed was an exciting traverse over mixed terrain on ice an inch or so thick back into an easier snow filled couloir. Slow going, but it holds if you take your time. Even some excavation and an adze jam in a particularly thin area... Anyway, take some rock pro and short screws, else you'll be free soloing everything. :] Quote
summitseeker Posted January 2, 2002 Author Posted January 2, 2002 Yes, I second Freeman's point on the ava hazard. My partner and I climbed a gully and flow to the far left. This meant we had to ascend and traverse (rightward) across all the chutes above the climbs. They are all quite steep (for those of you who haven't walked off before) and have a lot of snow in them. The name "the funnel" is appropo, since they will do that to snow from hundreds of feet above. Bottom line: be *very* careful. Quote
Freeman Posted January 3, 2002 Posted January 3, 2002 We were probably the party on the main flow on new years day and compared to other years the ice is definitely not fat. We did the climb in two 60 meter pitches instead of the normal 3 as I simply couldn't find good enough ice for a belay at the usual spot. We used 3 pins on the first pitch and belayed from 3 more - screws were pretty short or tied off. The first half of each pitch was good ice (altho there was water running under it) - the second half was either very thin or snow over the rock. Friends did a smear to the left (and also used some rock pro) and said they enjoyed it: it looked like the far right was also thin but climbable. Avy conditions on tuesday were moderate (little spin drift things comming down most of the day) but I'm sure it really loaded up last night. Remember the orginal name of this climb is "the Funnel" and you belay from the top of the avalanche cone ... Quote
genepires Posted January 4, 2002 Posted January 4, 2002 We just did hubba today and it hasn't changed much since these last reports. Bring screws shorter than 17cm and those tie off screamers. Good luck finding ice anchors. I tunneled away to make a pillar to wrap. Bring pins for those belays. Leave the snowshoes at home unless it snows between now and when you show up. Good luck and have fun! gene Quote
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