Ice Axe Leash Usage

[AR_Guy]

Does anyone have a link (or can reply) with an illustrated guide showing the proper way to use / shorten / attach an ice axe leash? You know, so that it's pretty much taut when you're grabbing the axe head in the self belay / self arrest grip?

 

The intended use of this info isn't for technical mountain climbing per se, but for crossing the high Sierra passes (Forrester, Muir, etc.) on the JMT / PCT during typical thru hiker season (~2nd 1/2 of June).

 

If I slip and have the axe planted firmly, I don't want to nearly have my arm yanked out of my shoulder with a several foot fall before the leash goes tight. Similarily, if the axe pulls, having the axe bouncing around at the end of 2 or 3 feet of leash while I slide - well that would tend to waste critical time needed for arresting the slide.

 

Thanks in advance......

[catbirdseat]

In the old days, it was common to have a leash on a metal ring that slid up and down the shaft of the axe. This allowed one to grab the head of the axe to arrest using the hand opposite of the one with the strap on it.

[Gary_Yngve]

The purpose of the leash is pretty much to prevent you from being stupid and dropping the axe. You need to grip the head of the axe firmly to self belay or self arrest. Be sure to practice arrest prior to the trip. Self arrest must be done immediately and aggressively. Having an axe and not knowing how to use it is next to worthless.

 

I'm not familiar with the terrain of the Sierras, but if the area is heavily trafficked, then maybe a pair of trekking poles would suffice?

[John Frieh]

Freedom of the hills. Go buy it.

 

Length will depend on whether you attach it to your harness or wrist.

 

Leash does not need to come tight when you self arrest... if anything people prefer a little slack.

 

If you plan on attaching it to your wrist one easy way to determine length is hook the very bottom of the leash over the spike, tie the knot/double back the slider buckle/how ever it attaches with enough tail to ensure the knot/slider won't fail and cut it.

[mattp]

Here is a pre-made leash that does what I think you describe. It is easy to tie one out of unsewn sling that will accomplish pretty much the same thing, without perhaps the carabiner attachment point that you see hanging just above the hand loop.