Razorback Ridge Mt Stuart?

[Kyle]

I've been eyeballing this attractive line for a while, but haven't heard much about it (other than Beckey's description). Anyone here done this? TIA,

[Guest]

First you must submit your resume to the public forum for approval. Then talk a bunch of crap on the message board to gain respect and then you might get one person to respond with any real information. It seems like half the people on the site want to give information about climbs they have not done including recommending some.

[Mr._Blister]

 

Well said, Office Space. I've not done the route either, but the Mountaineers publication of intermediate climbs (which I have from 1998, and I believe is updated annually) includes that climb and gives some good nuts and bolts (times, gear, etc.) and suggests that it is a very worthwhile alternative to the N. Ridge. Hope that helps. Give us a TR if you do it.

John Sharp

[Kyle]

Thanks Mr B, I work in Bellevue & might want to take you up on your offer, if it's not too much trouble for you... watch for an e-mail from me.

OS, I'm already quite familiar with the negativity that runs rampant on this & other internet forums, and I usually go out of my way to avoid getting into flame exchanges and bad-mouthing. Of course I'd still love any info you have to offer on the climb (in fact, now that I think about it, that's the main reason I posted this message in the first place).

[dberdinka]

Kyle, I've done it, it's fun! Good solid rock for the most part with occasional bits of 5.8 and a great section of "razorback" ridge climbing about half way up. Check out a photo in the gallery section at www.wwu.edu/~berdind.

As for beta, get on the buttress near the Stuart Glacier Coulior where ever possible. A bit of scrambling leads to 1-2 pitches of 5.8 then a few more to an obvious a' cheval section. Above that easy climbing on the west side of the buttress leads almost to the crest and a few bivi sites. It's a quick climb to the west ridge, maybe 3 to 5 hours total. We bailed down the back side due to bad weather. Bring a small to medium rack up to 3.5" and expect a little difficulty crossing the moat.

Not as classic as the N ridge but definitely a lot of fun!!

[Kyle]

...

[This message has been edited by Kyle (edited 09-27-2001).]

[Kyle]

Mr B, Thanks for tip (OS, thanks for nothing). I'm not familiar with the Mountaineer's publications... are you referring to a book that they publish, or is this a magazine that you have to be a member to get? I suppose I could visit the Mtrs library & check it out there...

[Guest]

Kyle,

I would like to give you some info but was just prepping you for the negativity I met one of the first ascentionists. Can I now give some second hand info?

[Mr._Blister]

It's a soft-bound guidebook, w/out pictures, that profiles climbs (most, though not all, in WA). They have a basic climb edition also, which I don't own. Though I'm not a Mountaineer, I bought the book at their bookstore downtown (which I think is the only place to get it, but I may be wrong; I've never seen the book in a retail outlet like REI etc.) In any event, my understanding is that it's comprised of trip reports from Mountaineers together with beta from Fred, Jim, et al. Each climb gets one page in the book. It has snow and ice climbs, alpine rock climbs, so-called mountaineering climbs, and pure ice climbs. The format is similar to Selected Climbs. I use it as a secondary source. I think the most helpful aspect is the times they give for each phase of a climb. Being a snob of sorts, I always figure I can better their times (and usually if not always do by some amount), but it's very helpful to know what they consider average times. Really fast climbers will crush their times.

If you're anywhere near Bellevue I'm happy to loan you my 1998 version. E-mail if you want it.

John

[YoungBoySimon]

Kyle:

It's John Sharp (aka Mr. Blister; fka Mr. Goodtime) on the home computer. Did you ever do the Razorback Ridge?

Let me know. I would have sent this "off line" but don't know your e-mail address. Mine at work is "johnsha@expedia.com."

Cheers,

John

[Freeman]

Kyle, I did the climb many years ago (maybe 10) so my memory isn't too good but I remember it as very fun, not too difficult (I didn't think we climbed any 5.8). The cool part was that a couple of friends were doing Stuart Glacier Couloir at the same time and we met at the notch, completed the summit pitches together and descended Sherpa Glacier together. We must have done it in June or July because the Couloir was still in good shape. I recall it being very much like the North Ridge without all the people. Post a TR, maybe it will bring back some memories <g>

[Kyle]

Sorry to say I haven't been up there yet, but I hope to get out there this season. If anyone's interested, I did find some more info on the route at http://www.tumtum.com/climbing/routes/97-08-02-Stuart.txt

I'll post a TR when I do finally climb it. Thanks to all for the great info & encouragement!