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Posted

background: I bought some Ergos this season and have climbed on them for about 8 days now. Done a variety of routes on lead (WI4) and TR (M7, WI5). I tend to stick with pure ice routes, but I do mixed/DT a little too. I don't know if I want to keep these tools or get something more like the quark or viper.

 

Concerns:

1) If I don't think about my swing (or I'm pumped/scared), I revert into the swing pattern of my old Grivels and CFBPs. Do I just need more time to get used to the unique swing of the Ergos? (i.e. does it becomes instinctual?)

 

2) Harder leads. I am hesitant to take off on harder routes now for fear of a) dropping a tool and b) pumping out on steep ground. Will more mileage solve these?

 

3) pounding pins is difficult with the handle angle.

 

4) when the handles get wet they are difficult to hang on to. leashes at least make this less of a concern.

 

Thoughts?

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Posted

I've been climbing leashless with a pair of Quarks this year. I wear my clipper leashes and just wedge the clips under then back of my gloves to keep them out the way. If things get waay pumped I can dig them out and clip in. This is a bit more confidence inspiring when leading harder stuff.

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