Dru Posted December 12, 2005 Posted December 12, 2005 Climb: Fraser Canyon & Coquihalla-After The Gold Rush/ Thinking Outside the Box Date of Climb: 12/11/2005 Trip Report: Saturday: Mer and I drove up the canyon to look for ice. Under The Big Top looked to be in. The unclimbed drip out of the cave above the highway, north of Hells Gate, looked to be in (who's gonna bolt it?) The inaccessible unclimbed ice on the wrong side of the river looked to be in. Pretty much everything else had a big open hole in it with water spitting out. We ended up driving all the way to Goldpan and climbing After The Gold Rush Unclimbed ice streaks way up on Ogilvie Peak. Been looking for ice here for years and this is the first time I have seen anything form. Mer sets out on ATGR pitch 2. We slogged up a couple of steep slopes to look at ice but found nothing else yet worth climbing. Sunday - all partners had bailed or gone home sick or stayed home sick. I decided to go check out some ice near Box Canyon. There was a lot more ice in the Jarvis Bluffs area, than there was last weekend. But it was warm, and looked like it was starting to melt out. I drove up to Box Canyon. The big ice streak on Yak was visibly dripping. Hiked south 600m from Box Canyon to this thing Steve had seen in an avalanche path. Normally would be scary but this year there is no avvy hazard yet. Anonymous climber The route. After standing around at the base waffling about scary loking thin spots I decided to climb it anyways. It turned out to be 75m of WI2 with some fun open water spots to avoid to right below the top. The final cone was really open and spewing water. I tried to climb up the side on chandelier ice but couldn't get any sticks to hold even after swinging at the same spot for 2 minutes straight and making a body-sized crater in the ice. So I traversed off to the side a bit and bouldered out up a 4m high, M4-ish offwidth with cedar roots and icicles in the back There are some neat looking mixed lines up the central part of this flow where the water ice is confined to the left. Maybe M5? Bring finger sized nuts and cams and probably some pins. "Thinking Outside The Box" 75m WI2 M4 Gear Notes: Tools and screws and poons Approach Notes: Short approaches from major highways Quote
rockguy Posted December 12, 2005 Posted December 12, 2005 Oh my god! You killed Kenny--you bastard! Quote
jmace Posted December 12, 2005 Posted December 12, 2005 Right on Toby and I went up to box canyon on saturday and saw the route you were talking about after driving to the toll booths by accident. We climbed Snakes and ladders and another route that I cant remeber the name of, all in all a good day with lots of ice and a pretty shitty approach, made extra shitty as a helicopter flew 50 feet above our heads over and over again filming a half naked man riding a horse up and down the little approach trail...this took 2 hours. Fairly weird start to the day. Quote
Dru Posted December 12, 2005 Author Posted December 12, 2005 OMFG I saw those horse hoof marks and thought it was a moose or something!! Quote
Dru Posted December 12, 2005 Author Posted December 12, 2005 Actually, according to "Squamish ethics", trees are part of the route, hence tree climbing is free climbing. Quote
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