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layedback

Smith Aid Route Suggestions

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I plan on getting some smith aid routes in this winter and looking for suggestions, so far I have done Bubus in Bondage (parking lot wall), Monkey Face (NW passage, east, and west face routes), what else is there especially of some length in the A-2 - A-3 range???

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Here is where I could go off about how much harder (or just more dangerous) these routes where before sprouting all the fatties...but I won't. How about Sands of time on the monument, Palo Verde Mesa Verde wall, Air to Spare Christian Brothers, or for a real thrill Soft Shoe Ballet on the PLW, looking down at the pointed flake under your bottom will pucker it for sure... or just start nailing up any old thing without bolts.

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Ho Chi-Minh Trail on the Red Wall, Pin Bender, and the Great Roof on Brogan Spire, Picnic Lunch Wall on PLW, Palo Verde on Mesa Verde, and the super sick Smith Aid line is just left of Scarface....Air to Spare which is a bit harder than A3+. Happy Nailing! Don't you love the looks you get from the sport climbers?

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Sweeet! Other people that want to aid at smith. !Layedback (or anyone), how was bubbas? Decent belay bolts? Still A3? I would imagine large angles, true?

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Bubbas... is it the cascading rocks from my partner leading the last pitch or the bolt that broke from side load from the lead line that make the route most memorable... I had a great time on the route, I found it very challenging and exciting (A-3). The belay bolts are good, and I believe the larger angles should be sawed angles. Broken bolt at start of 3rd (?) pitch should add yet a bit more challenge to the route.

 

Afive- out of your list what would you suggest, how is the great roof?

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It has been rumoured that bubbas goes clean but you'd have to clean my pants out if didn't tap something in going over the big roof, and plus I have lifetime rights to nail the sucker. It used to be dangerous because of poor belay anchors but they are all beefy now. On air to spare some of the orignal rivets and even one or two concrete nails (can't remember how many) would be highly suspect. I do love freaking out some of the sport climbers, others just don't have a clue. Last time up bubbas my wife was at the overlook watching and overheard a converstaion...we were being dissed since it goes free at 11c??? yeah right!

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On Brogans Spire, there are some abandoned free projects that provide some safe yet dicey nail ups. Just to the right of Great Roof. Masonary nails reccomended. Also just right of Spiderman route

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northwest passage is on monkey face right? starts on the west face for first pitch and then turns the corner?

anyway, does it go clean at that rating? also, is there any free climbing?

 

thanks

 

one more thing- is bubbas doable without that hanger(see above), and does anyone care if i was to replace it?

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It has been rumoured that bubbas goes clean but you'd have to clean my pants out if didn't tap something in going over the big roof, and plus I have lifetime rights to nail the sucker. It used to be dangerous because of poor belay anchors but they are all beefy now. On air to spare some of the orignal rivets and even one or two concrete nails (can't remember how many) would be highly suspect. I do love freaking out some of the sport climbers, others just don't have a clue. Last time up bubbas my wife was at the overlook watching and overheard a converstaion...we were being dissed since it goes free at 11c??? yeah right!

 

retired,

your right, bubbas in bondage has gone clean more than once. it was done again last year.

 

also, the first pitch goes free at 11c and was freed by thomas emde.

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