TR : Jack Mountain S. Face

[MountainMan]

Climbed Jack Mountain this weekend via the South Face. The approach is somewhat difficult, with a 5+ mile trail slog then an ascending traverse cross country to the ridge below Crater Mountain. From there we traversed Jerry Glacier down towards Jerry Lakes. On the way we looked for the reported ledge that would have allowed us to bypass the 1200' drop to Jerry Lakes, but we could not find it. Instead, we dropped down to Jerry Lakes and back up the next ridge (~600'). Then it was about a 600' drop and another 200' gain to get to camp in Crater Basin.

 

Once in Crater Basin, Jack looked far different than in any picture I've ever seen of it. The Northeast Glacier looked quite impressive with a jumble of ice and crevasses adorning its lower flank. The Southeast Glacier was equally impressive with its several cascading waterfalls that flowed into Crater Basin. From camp, we could barely make out the summit block towering majestically 3000' above us. We knew we had our work cut out for us the following day.

 

At 7:30 on Sunday morning, we left for the summit. We made quick work of the first 1000 vertical feet with light packs. We then came to the base of the cliffs below the summit block and they looked quite ugly. We looked for a spot to get onto the face, and found a short class 4/ low class 5 pitch that got us onto a series of ledges. We carefully followed the ledges up and crossed several ridges via some convenient notches. We found ourselves on the summit at 11:30 and took in some spectacular views of Ross Lake, Hozomeen, the Pickets, Cascade Pass area, Black Peak, Bonanza, Goode ... some of the best summit views I've ever seen. With another party ascending the East Ridge, we decided to head down early to prevent kicking down rocks on their party.

 

We carried a 30m 8.4mm glacier rope to the top .. we didn't use it. Take crampons for Jerry Glacier. Give yourself 3 days to climb this one. It could be climbed in 2 long days by a competent party, but it's in such a beautiful area that it would be a shame to do it so fast. Definitely one of the better climbs I've been on. Only 25 ascent parties are listed in the summit log since 1995. This one doesn't get climbed much.

 

Allow 8 hours for the approach and 5 for the return. From camp to summit took 4 hours.

 

[ 09-23-2002, 10:02 PM: Message edited by: MountainMan ]

[Dale]

Several questions: Was there much snow in the gullies on the South Face? If so, were you able to avoid it or were you able to cross/climb it without crampons? Did you even use the gullies, or stay on the ribs?

Someone else tried this route several weeks before you, and they said they were turned back by all the steep snow in the gullies.

[Stefan]

Can you tell me exactly where your camp was in reference to point x6072 on the USGS quad?

[klenke]

Two of us just climbed Jack (from Little Jack) this Saturday the day before stormy weather moved in. Fresh, new snow is likely on the mountain and it may stick around all the way to next summer.

 

If you want more information, send me an email.

 

===Paul

[MountainMan]

Dale,

There was very little snow in the gullies .. we were able to climb above or around all snow on the S. Face to prevent having to put on crampons. We used a ledge system that traversed the ribs, and we also ascended some gulleys (mainly near the summit). If the snow that recently fell up there melts off, it's a great time to climb it.

 

Stefan,

Our camp was pretty close to point x6072 .. within 200m. Beautiful camp spots with plenty of running water.

 

[ 09-30-2002, 06:33 PM: Message edited by: MountainMan ]

[wotan_of_ballard]

My experience(and others have concurred )is that the east ridge is the better way up from Crater basin(better rock than the S Face) S face with snow on it is prefered descent route.