Princely Ambitions

[EWolfe]

What a Great Climb!

 

Does anyone lead the traverse by manteling? I always heel-hook to the vertical crack, then up. A lot of seconds do the mantel early, seems sketchy on lead.

 

Placing gear for the second on the traverse? Is there a piece that won't get tweaked by a 2nd fall?

 

Discuss.

[whirlwind]

would be an opertune place to stick a tri cam

i always hand traverse it as well, with the heal hook, feels more solid that way

[Blake]

you have a problem with rope drag on lead there Erik? seems like drawing a giant "7".

[lancegranite]

Just run it out from the grab it this way and strech part thru the tip toe part to the get the good grip part...easy!

(this beta is good for seconds who might be interested in trying the upper parts of the harder climb on the left)

[Gary_Yngve]

The first time I led it (in someone else's not-quite-fitting rockshoes because I had forgotten mine), I mantled way early and did the balancy traerse to the .75 crack in the corner. Scared the shit out of me. Now I always do the hand traverse until I can yard up on that crack. For pro, just place that piece in the .75 crack high.

 

What a Great Climb!

 

Does anyone lead the traverse by manteling? I always heel-hook to the vertical crack, then up. A lot of seconds do the mantel early, seems sketchy on lead.

 

Placing gear for the second on the traverse? Is there a piece that won't get tweaked by a 2nd fall?

 

Discuss.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Only climbed it once. Used double ropes clipping one before the traverse and the other after the traverse. Hand traversed to the crack because the mantle looked scary.

[EWolfe]

you have a problem with rope drag on lead there Erik? seems like drawing a giant "7".

 

I always put a super-long runner to the right of the traverse so it's not so bad, but yeah. A little.

 

A friend sprained her ankle falling on the traverse without enough gear (LanceGranite style), so I plug in a few for 1st timers now.

 

Tri-cam? Crack on the traverse is too small for pinky, isn't it?

[eric8]

I'm pretty sure its orange tcu or super tight .5 camalot, I can't convert to tricam sizes though

 

I always plug a piece in at the start, hand traverse sans heel hook as this lets me go much faster, than high step on to the rail at the end and reach back to place a piece to protect my second

[whirlwind]

.5 cam should be the pink tri i think. i haven't climbed it in 3 or so yrs so i don't remeber what size the crack was

[ken4ord]

Great route. I had always climbed the traverse by manteling first, I always wiggled in a 00 tcu before the manteling. Then run it to the corner and place a piece up high to minimize the seconds swing if they were to fall. I think my piece was always a bomber nut from what I remember. Heel hooking across always looked like too much work.