rbwen Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 Climb: Leavenworth-Halloween Rock, Be Bop & Bush Gardens Date of Climb: 10/14/2005 Trip Report: A day off on Friday and some friends from out of town with a new baby made for three days of moderate cragging in the Icicle. We were looking for places we'd never been before that would give us moderate trad leads with nearby harder TRs for the new mom and out of shape babysitting climbers. Day One: We headed up to Halloween Rock and did the 5.9 Trick or Treat on TR. The route trends up and right but the natural tendency is to follow the quartz dike straight up (cuz it's easier) but going out to the bolts on the slab to follow the route is not too hard. It gets a bit thin toward the top. We didn't try the skull and crossbones-rated 5.7 Black Cat because it didn't look too fun. After that we headed to Classic Crack and set up a TR. I had never done that climb before and it was addicting. I can't wait to get back and do it again. Day Two: Next day off to Be Bop Rock for more cragging with the new addition. There I led the 5.6 Junior's Cookin' and we TR'ed the 5.10a Bit of Heaven. The 5.6 is pretty straightforward, following two wide cracks (one for gear, one for knee jams) all the way up to the bolted anchor. From there we set up our TR and did the mighty fine 10a next to it. It's only 60' and there are 7 bolts and it's not too bad up until the last ten feet when it gets a bit thin. Fun arete climbing! Third Day: Up to Bush Gardens, just east of Mad Meadows. I tried to find this place before with my wife but we got lost and one of us got upset at the other one for dragging her out into the middle of nowhere without even getting to climb...ahem...but this time we found it! We TR'ed the 5.7 crack on the right side. There are bolts on the top and you can walk up either side. The crack is wide enough for hand jams and would take some decent gear all the way up. You can also use the face for pieces and also for holds as there are multiple blocks and cracks zig zagging their way up the face. You get to a pretty wide bench and then up the funky chimney-like last 20 feet. After climbing this last section we all recounted the various ways we got up this last section. I was the only one who didn't spin completely around to face out away from the climb but instead made myself into a pretzel to get out of the chimney onto the final slab. Pretty fun, lots of variety. We then TR'ed the main, middle part of the wall. The start is pretty straight forward and easy but up toward the top (below the bench) are one or two moves of 5.10 or a bit harder. Then up and over the bench but this time I went left of the chimney to the top. This part went at about 5.8 and was pretty dirty because it hadn't seen a lot of traffic. There was also a set of anchors up and to the left and another face climb that looked to be in the 5.8-5.9 range but that will have to wait for another day. The weather was great all three days. We saw/heard a couple of parties on Pearly Gates on Sunday but for the most part we didn't see anybody on a lot of the climbs all weekend long. Our goal of moderate fun with an eight-month old in tow was successful. I recommend Bush Gardens for an easy trad lead and Be Bop Rock for the same, plus both of them have some nice harder stuff to test your mettle on. I know it's not quite Outer Space or Midnight Rock but it sure was fun. Gear Notes: Anchors on Halloween Rock, Be Bop Rock, and Bush Gardens Be Bop Rock 5.6, used cams up to 3.5" and was also able to clip a couple of the bolts on the 5.10 next to it Approach Notes: The trail to Halloween Rock was a bit hard to find. It's just below the 4th of July parking lot about 1/4 mile, look for a large culvert covered in rock. Head up through the burnt meadow and then go one set of rock bands higher. Bush Gardens is somewhat easily approached going under Williams 12 and Deb's Crack and then heading straight up the hillside til you see it east of Mad Meadows. Be Bop Rock starts across the street from Classic Crack and heads up and a bit right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RocNoggin Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 did you take any pictures? it sure helps to identify one set of rocks from another when you are looking for places you havent climbed at before. nice TR btw. I have climbed at Be Bop Rock and really liked it, I would like to try some of the other places in your TR too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbwen Posted October 17, 2005 Author Share Posted October 17, 2005 (edited) My buddy took some pics up at Be Bop Rock but only of us climbing, not perspective shots. The pics in Kramer's book are pretty good. I'll get any pics up as soon as he sends them to me. It was a bit hard to find Bush Gardens simply because the crack isn't readily apparent from down below because of the angle you see it from. Look for the big roof and you'll find it. It's about 200 yards uphill from Deb's Crack/Williams' Crack (directly up the hill around the West side). Edited October 17, 2005 by rbwen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbwen Posted October 18, 2005 Author Share Posted October 18, 2005 One good shot but you can't tell the route, etc. http://tinyurl.com/8dub3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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