Mazama area Beta

[Sleeveless]

Looking for beta on camping sites around Goat Wall, Mazama Rx area for this weekend.. and other climbing must do's... apart from beer in Winthrop.

TIA

Sleeveless

 

[ 07-03-2002, 12:07 AM: Message edited by: Sleeveless ]

[genepires]

There is a forest service camping area called early winters campground. Right by the river that chills beers nicely. $6/night for a bargain. There is lots of private land along the road to goat's wall so camping on the side of the road might be trespassing.

[Matt_Anderson]

Re: Camping - Just keep driving up the road and at some point it just about all becomes forest service land, I think that that point is marked and I think that it happens when the road becomes dirt, but am not possitive. There are a multitude of places to pull off a few hundred feet from the road and camp by the rifver. If you hunt around, you should be able to find your own free shangri-la pretty easily.

 

Re: climbing must do's - You are probably aware of it if you are intending to go to goat wall, but Burdo put a route up the goat's beard that is a blast. Everything except the last pitch is mid .10 or easier (think Exit 38 ratings).

The good news is that, because it follows a major water streak, it appears that a substantial layer of limestone has covered 3/4 of hte route, improvingt he quality of the rock, allowing for a multitude of pockets and pinches and generally making for a novel experience for the northwest (better than if it was just ascending the metamorphic . . .)

The bad news is taht the two weeks ago the route was still drenched with runoff. Hopefully it has dried by now.

Finding it was easy, go to goat wall. Look for the goat's beard ( a major water streak (ice climb in winter), then look for the bolts (no pro needed). There is a better trail that ascends to that route than ascends to the other routes on that wall. Here are the notes I have for finding the trail:

 1 mile past fun rock, below goat wall, the road has already taken a turn, at crest of first signifiicant hill, goat wall is on your right, river visible on left.

 Large turnout on the left

 Before turnout, large boulders , first is road cut, second back in trees, third one is close to road

 Between second and third boulder, ascend up

 See trail Hiking back towards mazama

 Trail takes ubrupt left w/I 30 – 40 yards up through forest

 Trail angles up and left

 Reaches talus

 Couple of cairns in talus

 If lost, look for large decomposed tree 1/3 up hill side (reddish). Trail crosses it.

 When close to the rock, it diagonals up and right

 You’ll see

 20-30 minute approach

 

You rap the route with double ropes until the top of pitches 3 & 4. Then the rap route diverges to the climber's left. Reputedly horrendous rope drag if you rap the routes 4 lowest pitches.

[Uncle_Tricky]

Yup, it's a pretty fun route. To approach just aim for the big white streak--the route starts about 30 feet to the right of it and criss-crosses it. No double ropes necessary for descent if you rap the line you climb. Bring a helmet--I personally peeled off a good number of "holds."