Royal Basin?

[sjwages]

I took a daytrip to Royal Basin to check out the area. It looked to me like the best rock would be on the S. face of Johnson or Clark. I didn't venture up into Suprise Basin so I was wondering how clean the rock is and if it protects well (cracks, horns). Has anybody climbed there? Is the book soft on the ratings? How many pitches can you get out of the longer climbs?

[olyclimber]

I'm not sure, but here are some pictures (from a hike, didn't go up to climb the choss)...

[bremerton_john]

Some of the best rock climbing in the Olympics is right there in Royal Basin, or more specifically the Needles. Mind you, this is not the Cascades, so if you are new to climbing Olympic rock don't go in with really high expectations of quality. BUT, there are some very enjoyable routes to be found here. The ratings in the book are actually fairly good for the Needles. (I know that the new edition coming out early next year will feature enhanced write-ups of some of these, including new routes). Oly's pictures above show Mt. Clark, Sweat Spire, Gasp Pinnacle, Mt. Johnson, the Incisor and the Arrowhead just below Martin Peak. Unless you pioneer some new routes on the steeper, longer sides of some of these, they are all essentially single pitch climbs once you reach their base. However, to get to Sweat, Gasp & Johnson you have to ascend some 4th/low 5th class terrain. I'd recommend going for these 3 on your first trip, as they'll give you a good taste of what's possible. Protection on these routes is decent, consisting of some shallow cracks that accept small gear and the odd horn to sling. The Arrowhead is the exception, as it's got a real nice jammin crack nearly the whole way up. Come to think of it, that pitch on the Arrowhead may be the best one up there.

 

This is my favorite time of the year to be up there.

 

John

Edited September 24, 2005 by bremerton_john

[Harry_Pi]

Hello capitalist!

Is not Royal Basin a location the National Park Service deposits carcasses of mountain goats? Trying to climb around that stench is almost impossible.

Thank you for allow me to post.

[olyclimber]

Thanks for your contribution here HarryPi. You always have something meaningful and constructive to add to the conversation. Wear this post like a badge of honor.