[TR] Index- City Park and Shriley

[underworld]

Climb: Index-City Park and Shriley (to include big whipper)

 

Date of Climb: 9/11/2005

 

Trip Report:

So I finally convinced a friend of mine that aid climbing is action packed, fast-paced fun. Having only done it a few times myself, we head to the beloved city park. We split it into 2 pitches using the intermediate anchor off to the left, set up a haul and swing it to let him have his first lead. It all goes smooth and even convince him to have a go at a cam hook.

 

Next we scope out the base of Shirley and the arch looks too good to pass up. I lead it and find the lower portion to be a little tough as it was loose flakes and some more marginal gear (compared to C.P. at least). Shirley is certainly a lot more interesting than C.P. demanding more than just a rack of #4 stoppers. A few moves from the anchor a #0 DMM nut pulled, I had already tested it and was in the upper steps of the aiders w/ the rope clipped into the gear. Pulling all the slack and w/ stretch, it ended up being ~25 footer. Catching the fall was a bomber #6 BD micro nut. (the kind w/ the wire swaged into the nut itself). This is to be my first fall of that magnitude. So, after changing into clean shorts, i yarded my way up to the greatest nut in the world (not to be taken out of context) and finished up the pitch w/ a couple of glorious cams. Rapped off and got our place in line on HWY 2 to be stuck helplessly while the new episode of the simpsons plays on a tv somewhere out there. (was it good?? ...anyone?)

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

City Park: lottsa small nuts, a gray alien and a #2 camalot

 

Shirley: 1 set BD micro nuts, full set of nuts, pinky, cams to 3" and one hook move, that can most likely be avoided.

 

Approach Notes:

Rednecks trying to drive on the RR tracks w/ their redneck friends in the back of the truck.

Edited September 13, 2005 by underworld

[fenderfour]

Next time check out Ten percent and Stern Farmer.

 

Love thy micronuts

[Adventurewagen]

We got up there early that morning beating everyone except for a couple of locals who were on their way down from the upper wall. Apparently there was a HUGE rock slide somewhere on the wall that they heard for a couple of minutes. They went up to check it out but got tired and turned back. We headed up to get on town crier but didn't see any rock fall there, I think it must be at or around the diamond. Anyone run into it?

 

After getting off the upper wall later that day we were pulling our ropes when a large boulder hit about 40ft left of us, some kind of day.

 

We finished up by heading to the lower wall to see if any rockfall made it to the bottom, but nobody heard anything. In fact it was dry and everyone was free climbing. We figured it was gonna rain so we decided it was a good day to aid, shoulda brought the shoes. I did get a chance to aid up iron horse which had a fun hook move for my short ass, although I think I prefer free to aid its definately something to do in the rain!

[bigwalling]

Shirely is a really good clean aid route. Lots of fun and a cool crack.