Forbidden conditions

[Keithish]

Anyone climbed E or W ridge forbidden lately. What's the condition of the approach/glacier crossing to get oto the route(s)?

[pup_on_the_mountain]

Getting to the West Ridge might be a problem. The unnamed glacier was heavily broken as on Aug 20 (I realize its been a while since I was there, but the conditions could have only worsened since then). We still managed to find our way through it, but couloir was out of shape. Unfortunately, we took an alternate gully and had to do lots of exposed pitches to get to the base of the route. Someone else also mentioned having problems climbing the gully (the correct one - not the one that we took) more recently. I've some pictures from my trip here.

 

When we were there, two teams attempted the East Ridge (one summitted), and they said the approach was doable.

[goatboy]

I imagine, from previous experience, that one could easily access the E Ridge now -- though it's a significantly more sustained and technically harder climb -- much more challenging climbing than the relatively scrambly W Ridge -

 

The real plus side of the E Ridge is leaving your boots, Ice Ax, whatever else at the notch and returning to it via the NE Face Descent route . . .

[Keithish]

Excellent; thanks for the info on conditions and route(s). Forecast unsettled weather for Sat might force a change of plans...