Mountain Conditions Report September 2nd Canada

[jmckay]

Summary of conditions to date - Rockies and Interior Ranges

September 2, 2005

 

Generally pretty good conditions over the last week, although high alpine regions near the Continental Divide are getting progressively snowier.

 

Monday and Tuesday saw a brief system pass through the area, depositing up to 10 cm of snow at the higher elevations. Add this to the remains of the August 23 storm and there are still some significant snow accumulations to be found above 3300 meters. North facing routes are most certainly covered in snow now.

 

Strong winds through the week have been blowing the loose snow around and creating pockets of windslab - the kind of isolated slabs that can catch a climber by surprise. This was reported at both the Columbia Icefields and Lake Louise areas.

Glacier travel conditions are generally quite good (foot penetration is low), but crevasses recently covered by new snow remain thinly bridged. New snow accumulation on the glaciers currently begins at about 2800 meters. Crevasse and bergshrund problems are normally at their worst during the late summer, and lots of poking and probing is required to locate the holes right now.

No recent reports in from the Bugaboos, but conditions can be expected to relatively good and dry, with only the highest elevations and north facing routes covered in snow. For example, the final pitches on the summit block of Pigeon are full of snow and ice.

 

Routes in the Bow Valley such as Mt. Louis and Castle Mountain were dry and ready to go as of Friday.

 

The mountain forecast for this weekend is mixed, with precipitation forecast each day. The upper flow appears to be westerly, which generally gives drier conditions in eastern regions. The temperature will drop on Sunday, which will no doubt result in a few more centimetres of fresh snow falling on the Continental Divide. This will only add to those isolated windslabs that seem to be lurking about.

There is of course lots of good climbing to be had - expect frozen and snowy conditions on the high north aspects. Anticipate rockfall each day on sun-exposed mixed terrain, as "Ze ice chunks melt, and ze rubble is loozened from ze mountain" (Eiger Sanction).

 

The trail up Bryant Creek into Mt. Assiniboine has been closed until further notice due to a grizzly bear encounter. If you're planning to hike into Assiniboine this weekend - don't go this way (and bring your gaiters, the mountain looks like winter!).

 

Grant Statham

 

_______________________________________________

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.

Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[jmckay]

Approach trail contours above the bear closure from Saddle pass (were

the closure starts).

 

Glacier tongue snow free til about 8700', bailed from there in rain,

sleet, and thunder at about 10:00 today. New waterice formed on the high

cliffs of Haddo Peak. Nice morning until the storm.

 

Happy trails

Barry Blanchard

 

_______________________________________________

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.

Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[jmckay]

Asst. Alpine Guide Exam, Lake Louise

 

Sept 2

 

Mt Little

Huber Ledges, Victoria

 

Thunder and lightning mid-morning, rain, sleet and snow. Clearing mid-day, then rolling in again mid-afternoon. Sloppy snow conditions, thin snow bridges. Several cm's of new snow. No summits due to the stormy weather, both groups got to 3000 m.

 

Talked to the Full Guide Exam in the Bugaboos on the radio, sounded as if the weather was a bit more stable there than in the Rockies.

 

Sept 3

 

Aberdeen

Unnamed

 

A worse forecast gave us better weather today although rain and lightning overnight. 10-20 cm old moist snow below 3000 m. Good travel, very secure steps. New snow starting at 3000 m, above 3300 m things are plastered. Winter is starting.

 

Mark

 

_______________________________________________

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.

Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[jmckay]

Been up in the western side of the Spearhead Range for the last few days. The glaciers where drying up nicely - all ice on N aspects to just below the ridge line. Remnant patches of last winters snow are usually less than .5m deep. Today got up to 4cm HN (on the ice) and the average temp at 7500' was 0 degrees. Bit wintery but was too warm to be sticking to the rock much.

 

Dave Sarkany

_______________________________________________

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.

Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[Juan]

Hey:

 

Thanks for the report. Should I plan a trip to Assiniboine in the next week? A friend is interested in going, but says that several recent snow storms have covered the mountain. We'd be doing the std. N. Ridge.

 

Are there good websites for weather and conditions updates? Thanks very much for your input.

 

John Sharp

Seattle

jsharp@windermere.com

[jmckay]

Several storms would about sum it it up. The mountain never really did clean off to it's prime summer shape.

 

http://mckay.informalex.org/forum/viewforum.php?id=24

 

that site will give you a few extra photos and a bit of beta. My guess is that you would be facing early winter conditions. With the reduction of light and unseasonably cool moist temps it may be more then what your looking for. Climbable, yes but certianly a few more objective hazards. I think that we are starting to get to the stage where snow will be a consideration both in avalanche hazard(though not great yet i am guessing) and travel with postholing. Haven't been there lately so I am gibving you my best guess. Try mid Aug next year would be my advice.

 

all teh best

 

Joe

[Juan]

Thanks so much for this info, Joe. The friend who wants to go (last name Beckey) has said it is snowy and would take an "indian summer" to dry off. Maybe it's best to wait until next year. Rats.

 

Would we have better luck to the west by chance? Should I take this off line?

 

Thanks,

 

John

[jmckay]

It is getting early winter here but th eLouise group and icefields still have some good objectives. Rogers pass is perhaps a few weeks behind us so you may be able to sneak in Sir Donald but the days are getting short. You would have to be efficient to get that in now. Can't give you much more advice than that. The cool temps are holding the choss in place so perhaps Shooting Gallery. Pinnicle in Loiuse/moraine. things can change a lot. We had moisture in town snow at 7000 but it melted for the most part over the day. Come on up you can buy me a beer.

 

We can keep this online how else is everybody in Seattle going to know that I know it all.

 

Hope this helps a bit. Leave Assiniboine for next year it will still be there I think.

joe

[jmckay]

Just returned from a trip to the South glacier route on Mt. Bryce. We

parked at the end of the road into Rice Brook.The turn off for Rice

Brook is at 94km on the Bush River Road and is a right turn immediately

after you cross the Bush River. At this point the road will take you to

about 1300m and about 5- 6 hours walk to a high camp at the toe of the

SW glacier. Rice Brook easy to ford about 100 m upstream of the missing

bridge.We then continued to walk the road for about 45 minutes to the

base of a large path with an easy to follow stream bed in the center of

the path.About five minutes of thick bush off the road will lead into

this stream bed or go up to the top right corner of the last cutblock

before the path and then into the bush to find the drainage. About 500m

up the path then contour left and up to the basin below the SW glacier.A

couple of bivi sites just below the glacier.Total elevation gain to the

high camp of 1000 m.

On Friday morning after an excellent freeze we climbed the 600m 35 to 45

degree snow and ice couloir to gain the large glacial bench below the

middle and main peaks of Bryce. By staying well to the right of the main

runnel we were able to avoid potential rock fall. From the bench we

climbed 150 m of 40 degree snow to reach the ridge on the main peak near

the "butterfly cornice".This slope had previously sluffed the 10cm of

snow from last week.. As we were climbing this slope a thin layer of mid

level overcast blew in and radiation effect was intense with zero

visiblity.Upon reaching the ridge we found 30 to 40 cm of recent snow

blown in and forming small soft new cornices. This recent snow and

rapidly rising temps caused such poor footing that we turned around

about 150m from the summit.

We waited till early evening to descend the couloir to our camp and

encountered minimal rock fall.

In summary and with hindsight I would say that this approach to the

bench below the main peak is likely out of condition for the

season,mainly due to bare ice and rockfall. With better conditions this

route provides a relatively simple route to the middle and main peaks of

Bryce . Easily done in a 3 day round trip.

During the climb we found isolated areas of spooky feeling snow

,typically a 15 cm pencil crust overlying weak wet grains and ice and

saw previous and current wet sluffs to size 1.5.

 

 

 

 

 

 

David Scott

Canadian Alpine Guides/Eagle Pass Heliskiing

[jmckay]

The wild rain storm that everyone experienced a couple of days ago left a

sprinkling of snow down to about 9000 feet. The Sir Donald group has some fresh

snow lingering above that elevation, as do the Swiss Peaks and Hermit.

Yesterday was hot and sunny, and the rock appears to be drying out. Tupper

looks dry.

 

Sf.

 

 

 

_______________________________________________

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.

Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[jmckay]

Guided two guests up the NF of Assinaboine yesterday (Sept 6), fantastic

winter climbing conditions, identical to a Febuary day I had on the

route once. That said, it was a long day -19 hrs (5am-midnight) hut to

hut. Gmoser Highway is dry, NF was locked up in frost all day. Belayed

all but 100m of short roping at the shoulder. 4 double snow picket

anchors, 1/2 dozen screw anchors (the snowy summer has created a lot of

water-ice bordering the gulleys and snow bands), numerous rock and

in-situ anchors. A fellow guide with single guest started on the lower N

Ridge then came into the NF at the Red Band. Everyone (5) summitted at

4pm then rapped the NF. Got about a half dozen abalakovs in the

twentyish rappels, left four pins and nuts and all the prussik and long

webbing. Feet started to get cold a couple of times in my leather boots,

but never went numb. It was a stunning day up high.

 

Happy trails

Barry Blanchard

 

_______________________________________________

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.

Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[jmckay]

Just out yesterday from Bugs.

Great weather. Climbed kain route on Sept7, generally dry except a few spots on upper ridge. Dry on the pitches,

Snowpatch-Bug col still works. Used right side, crossed schrund near rocks. Still OK. Definitely need crampons. 2 60m lowers from anchors at top get you to shrund.

Pigeon looked snowy!

Weather was changing on Sept 8.

Peter.

 

Peter Amann

Mountain Guiding

Box 1495, Jasper AB, T0E 1E0

www.incentre.net/pamann

pamann@incentre.net

_______________________________________________

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.

Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[jmckay]

Went up the North Peak of Victoria yesterday with the famous Dan Ronsky. Dan saved my life several times during the course of the day but is such a humble guy would deny having done anything out of the ordinary. The type of guy who would shrug his heroic action off with a simple ?you would have done the same for me? sort of thing. Like when pigs fly by your window I would, climb with me you?ll be ?touching the void? first chance I get.

The last time I went up there was with Mark Klassen 16 years ago and Niki Code 4 years prior to that. I had forgotten what an awesome moderate mountaineering trip this can be.

Winter is starting to set in with some snow lasting from the prior storms. The North face aspect below the main summit is picking and keeping more snow then other areas. 10cm pen on the top with 80+ in the more sheltered catch basin. No evidence of slab build up with all tests showing good bonding to the old snow. Interface producing hard irregular shears. Evidence of wet slide activity a week prior during the brief warm spell but not much chance of activity yesterday as temps were moderately cool and cloud cover prevented strong direct solar heating. Definite softing of snow surface on decent and mild balling of crampons but no big deal. Temps ?1 @ 11,000 @ 11am / +5 @9,000 12:30pm<p>That was yesterday. As we descended light rain began at lower elevations. It rained fairly steady all night here in Banff with hard cold rain most of the morning. I would suspect that yesterday?s conditions no longer exist and that one could expect much more of a winter environment (or not)

 

 

The other guys decription of the day

 

Brief note on a successful ascent of Mount Victoria North Thursday, Sept. 8. under mixed sky and a low ceiling but the rain held off until we were back at the tea house on descent.

 

I was really lucky to hook up with Joe McKay who now resides in Banff. I left Cowgary at 2:30 am, picked up Joe in Banff and arrived LL at about 5:00 AM. We started off with a pretty healthy pace and made the Tea house by around 6:15 and had a bite to eat, some water and waited for more day light so we could see the trailhead. Left the Tea house around 6:30. Good thing as the trail is VERY faint. Go across the bridge, and just before the end of the avalanche path, a faint trail on the right heads off into the bush... after that the trail is well worn.

 

Glacier had new snow however, there were numerous old tracks visible. From the toe, we did not follow the old tracks and instead, took a line right, bringing us under Collier, traversing the slope and staying high above the big cracks. Minimal penetration with good bite on the crampons. On our line we only had one instance where we had to take extra caution with a crevasse to cross.

 

Schrund was a bit tricky, however Joe found a place to cross it and in hindsight, it was no real issue. Most of the head wall was dry with a few snow patches. The up climbing on the small ledges / steps was loose however no problem. The col has some pretty big cornices on it, we stayed climbers right of centre to get onto the col and the summit ridge.

 

The snow on the ridge was hard and as you approached the 5.3 buttress there was a bit more loose snow, mid boot penetration. We traversed under the buttress and stayed on the snow. The angle is quite steep and if I had to go again, I might instead stay lower, on the snow bench and then tackle the slope on the climbers right of the buttress head-on, I found the steepness similar to Lefroy. We were on the summit just before noon.

 

Heading down, we needed to down climb the slopes skiers left of the buttress for about 3/4 of the slope, then could plunge step face out. We went all the way to the bench this time. Good snow coverage, no ice. (boot top going out, due to leeward snow deposits on the bench it was knee deep for about 100 M going back to the ridge)

 

There are numerous anchors about 20 M below the col (skiers left of centre) for rapping the headwall to or past the schrund, though we just down climbed it. Back at the toe of the glacier by 2:00 PM, snow was balling on the crampons on the way out.

 

Started to drizzle and we were back at the car by ~4:30... so less than 12 hours round trip, and we were not running though we did keep a steady pace.

 

Nice day in the mountains, temperature was prefect with some wind from the ridge to the summit. Starting to look wintery above the col.

 

Joe's the best...... he lead the entire way..

 

If you would like some photos of the route please let me know.

 

dan

Edited September 9, 2005 by jmckay

[jmckay]

Fresh snow down to the highway in the Icefields this morning. Snowing

1-2 cm/hr from about 09:00 until we left at 11:00. Settling fast, but I

did get some of the surface to start sloughing while rapping down. Could

be some great skiing up there when the storm ends.

 

Take Care

Barry Blanchard

 

_______________________________________________

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.

Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

 

 

http://mckay.informalex.org/forum/viewtopic.php?id=116

[layton]

Wow, thanks a bunch for sharing the mtn conditions up north. it's always so hard to get a handle on what the rockies are up to without actually being there. hard to spin the old wheel of misfortune based on numbers off the net.

 

so, i was thinking of heading up for some early season north facing route(s). has the snow settled, looks like a dry spell coming up...or is it slabs of death and wrist deep powder scratchin asking yourself "wonder what my pick is hooked on under dat pow pow?"

[olyclimber]

This site is mentioned on that "Eric and Lucie's Bus Trip" website as a being a place info on Canadian ice:

 

http://live-the-vision.com/cms/index.php?option=com_simpleboard&Itemid=26