[TR] Vesper Peak- North Face 8/29/2005

[Jim]

Climb: Vesper Peak-North Face

 

Date of Climb: 8/29/2005

 

Trip Report:

We debated about the forecast and opted for a one day climb of Vesper rather than our 2 day outing somewhere else. I recently saw the discussion about the 3rd class ledge short-cut to avoid the glacier, which looked like it would've been a problem anyway. Big moat and lots of crunching and cracking going on.

 

So it was a scramble along the ledge until we got to some solid rock. Then two traverses along small rock ledges. Then the fun part. I think we were maybe over a bit too much to the right as I led two pitches of 5.3-5.5; one with one piece of protection the other with two. We angled over towards the left on the next pitch via slab and sramble ledges. The last long pitch was more relax ing with a series of cracks to take some pro.

 

All in all an enjoyable day out. From the car it was about 2.5 hours to the notch, 30 min scramble, 3 hr climbing (party of 3 in no rush) and 2 hr back to the car. We saw one campsite at the lake, passed a couple of folks on the way up, and heard some folks on the summit while we climbed but no one was in sight when we topped out. And there is a bumper crop of blueberrys to be had. Very different place now then for the usual spring ski. Nice to see the place in different seasons.

 

Gear Notes:

50m rope (60 would be better)

small rack to 2 in

[Chad_A]

I'll have to put this on the list for a one-day outing; sounds more than doable.

 

Any pics? Thanks for posting.

[Alpine_Dreamer]

I did the N. Face of Vesper w/ Happy Camper a couple weeks ago - fun day climb! Due to crap visibility, it was more of an adventure than I was expecting. Downclimbing to the glacier does get you a few more pitches of climbing on fairly decent rock - I thought it was well worth it. Definitely hope to go back again in better weather . . .