Shuksan, North Face

[Norman_Clyde]

Nice one, Colin, another fine day well spent. I'm wondering: the N. Face appeals to me greatly as a solo, though I try to minimize crevasse risk when I'm on my own (Of course, if you were planning to ascend the Price then the N. face wouldn't worry you much). Any thoughts on this aspect of the climb?

[Colin]

My plans to try the Price Glacier were changed this morning when I slept through my alarm an hour and a half. I settled to try a speed-ascent of the North Face instead.

 

This early in the season, one definitely doesn't need to drop down to the creek on the approach, like later in the summer. Instead, hike along the road (ski area catrack) that leads East from the White Salmon Lodge, and where it ends begin a long, slightly descending, traverse to the base of the White Salmon Glacier. The rest is obvious, but run where appropriate (below the hanging glacier).

 

There were tracks on the face that looked like they had been left on Saturday, and conditions were generally good and firm. The final "headwall," in particular, was absolutely fabulous neve. As long as the nights stay clear, the face should stay in particularly enjoyable condition (assuming you get an early start).

 

Like the tracks before me, I opted out of the summit pyramid, and descended from the top of the face (However, the summit pyramid looked really cool in its still-winter conditions, and had some steep ice on it). I descended the White Salmon Glacier, which had an awkward crust in places, and then ran back to the car.

 

No need to bring skis or snowshoes as long as you start early.

[Colin]

Crevasse risk is an issue on the North face, but I think that it is fairly minimal. Certainly much less significant than soloing any route on Rainier.

 

There are two main crevassed sections on the North face: one at the bottom, and one right below the final "headwall." Skirt the lower section on the left, and the upper section on the right. Be aware that after you skirt the lower section on the left, you must traverse back right (below a small serac - hurry) to the "hidden couloir." It is really easy to go way right of the upper crevasses - You'll feel a bit more exposed, but it isn't any steeper and is totally devoid of crevasses.

 

From the top of the face, you will certainly expose yourself to less crevasse danger if you descend immediately to Winnie's Slide (But remember to first traverse to descender's left across the Hanging Glacier - don't confuse it with the Upper Curtis Glacier that you want to descend!), rather than traverse around the Crystal Glacier to the easy side of the summit pyramid.

 

In any event, a big factor in minimizing crevasse danger while soloing is to get a really early start on a clear night.

[AlpineK]

Nice work

[humph]

My partner and another pair from olympia were up on the NF on 6/1. The snow was good early in the am, but softens up by noon. Better be off the white salmon by 1000. Lots of snow which makes approach easy. The face was mostly snow with only a little ice at crest of the shoulder.