Ursa_Eagle Posted July 25, 2005 Posted July 25, 2005 Anyone gone up this route? I'm wondering what the quality of the rock is like. I saw a register entry on Saturday that read "First couple hundred feet don't belong in Oregon. Worth the approach." I was wondering if anyone can elaborate on this (is the crux on good rock, how difficult is the chossy section, etc.) Quote
OldManRock Posted July 26, 2005 Posted July 26, 2005 My first time was back in Aug 1963 - The rock was still a bit warm - Anyway the first couple pitches are on excellent rock - Then it turns into normal vertical scree - With so many more climbers on the route a lot of the loose stuff has been kicked off - The crux is on solid rock in the midst of normal Oregon vertical scree - One of the fun routes on Mt. Washington - Be aware if there is a party on the East Buttress most of the rocks you kick loose will head straight toward them - Hard hats are nice... Quote
Ursa_Eagle Posted July 29, 2005 Author Posted July 29, 2005 Thanx for the info! I will hopefully post a TR next week. Quote
Ursa_Eagle Posted August 1, 2005 Author Posted August 1, 2005 Great route! First 2 pitches were of North Cascades quality rock, and there's a great knife-edge ridge traverse. Crux was indeed on good rock amid a sea of vertical scree, and the upper pitches wern't that bad (we simuled after the crux.) I will post a more detailed TR when I get a chance... Quote
OldManRock Posted August 2, 2005 Posted August 2, 2005 Glad you enjoyed the route - When you got to where you are looking over at the East Buttress route, did you start looking for the right way to go - I remember when I first did the South Face and looked at the S.E. Spur and said "You would have to be crazy to climb that" and the next year I was climbing it - Looking over at the East Buttress and saying "You would have to be crazy to climb that" and the next year I was climbing that - Tom B who did the first ascent, just climbed it again for the 39th time.. Quote
Ursa_Eagle Posted August 2, 2005 Author Posted August 2, 2005 I was looking at the steepness and exposure of the East Buttress and was thinking "maybe someday, but not anytime soon". I was also looking at the approach gully and thinking very similar thoughts to what you thought, it looks rather crazy. The start of the SE Spur was actually quite spectacular. We started on the left side, as per the guidebooks, and except for a 6 foot step of volcanic crap that we had to get around to gain the rock, it was quite enjoyable. 39th time?! Holy crap! Quote
John Frieh Posted August 2, 2005 Posted August 2, 2005 OldManRock (Gary) is one of the original OR climbers... his name is on just about everything! Great climber with TONS of good info about OR goodness. Quote
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