Triumph Approach Glacier

[goatboy]

Hey folks,

Has anyone approached Mt Triumph (via the standard Thornton Lakes way) lately? I'm curious about the state of the glacier crossing there.

Thanks in advance for any responses or beta.

Off Belay,

Steve

[titsmack]

Not lately, but late summer several years ago it was just an ice field and a small glacier with one crevasse to jump over.

[Kyle_Flick]

Two weekends ago we crossed it and it was straightforward. You shouldn't have any problems. Have a nice trip.

[mattp]

I have heard of people who didn't like the looks of the glacier deciding it better to just drop down and cross below it. One buddy of mine told me he thought it faster to do it this way, rather than stop and set up for glacier travel. What do you think about this idea, Kyle, having just been there?

[Kyle_Flick]

Staying higher on the snow made for easier transition to the slabs on the other side. One cautionary note: Beware of a very loose boulder 10' below the notch of the ridge crest.

[goatboy]

Thanks much for the report, folks.

I'm planning on having a go one of these upcoming weekends. Any problems getting a permit up there, you reckon, over a weekend? I know it's not as hectic as the Boston Basin zoo, but they only give out permits for two parties at a time in that area, as I understand it . . . guess I'll just have to try my luck.

[Climzalot]

We were out there last weekend and had no trouble with the glacier. Crossing from the col was super mellow and straightforward. Approach shoes worked well and crampons made the glacier travel go a lot faster. There were no problems getting on to the ridge and the route was in fine shape. There is good fishing in the Thornton lakes on the way in as well. Enjoy!