[TR] Wheeler PK (CA)- NW arete (new route?) 7/10

[syudla]

Climb: Wheeler PK (CA)-NW arete (new route?)

 

Date of Climb: 7/10/2005

 

Trip Report:

Per your request...

Set alarm for 4am the day prior. Ah forget it.

7/10: The alarm in my head goes off, I look overhead for the 'pretty lights,' no... that was last year. Stumble around getting dressed.

"What are you doing"

"Go back to sleep honey, the pencil is put away"

Out the door, no coffee. Damn! getting a bad start.

7am: Arrive trailhead, The campers are beginning to stir. Discover I forgot the camera in the dark lack of coffee fugue. Shit! Pictures are overrated anyway

7:12 Start hiking. Arrive in basin below arete around 9am. Discover I forgot the food in the dark no coffee fugue. Shit! Food is overrated anyway.

Climb up couloir a short distance to crack system that appears to lead to arete. 5.8 climbing for a pitch leads to crest of arete. Discover I have no partner to belay. Cool! Partners are overrated anyway. Climb arete staying true to the crest which yields fun climbing to about .6

11:45 Arrive summit. No writing utensil, Ah ha! I know this! A small wound has opened on my thumb providing ink for summit register.

7PM Arrive home. 15 hrs door to door, including post climb beer.

OK it aint Serra 5, but its a day.

 

 

(Photo stolen and annotated from my friend Sam)

Edited July 25, 2005 by syudla

[chris]

Excellent!

If you're talking about Wheeler Peak, 13,000 ft, located on the Wheeler Ridge, then according to Secor the North Arete was first climbed in 1991. Here's what he says"

"'Wheeler Peak' 13,000 ft+; 12,966 ft;

"1.4 mi NE of Broken Finger Peak

"This is the high point of Wheeler Ridge. The north summit is the true summit. The northeast and southwest ridges are class 2. First ascent August 14, 1945 by Don McGeein and Virgil Sisson.

"North Arete. Class 5. First ascent 1991 by Claude Fiddler and Jim Keating. This route starts from the junction of the north and northwest face."

R.J. Secor, The High Sierra, pg. 331

[Dechristo]

The alarm in my head goes off, I look overhead for the 'pretty lights,' no... that was last year.

Gotta have the head trauma for that effect.

 

Stumble around getting dressed.

"What are you doing"

"Go back to sleep honey, the pencil is put away"

 

Partners are overrated anyway.

Fuh Q

 

A small wound has opened on my thumb providing ink for summit register.

You do this for a day scramble in the Sierras and won't do the same after dodging avalanches and carpet-bomb rockfall on the fifth ascent of Serra Five? ...dick! I guess the head trauma has had a beneficial effect.

 

Beauty solo effort.