Stavrogin Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 got an email from kloke regarding some new routes at erie.... see attachment! 471243-NEWROUTES.doc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 Kloke is an animal! He's put up more routes just this year alone than most people do in a lifetime. Good work Dallas and thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 What is the deal with the Bolts disclaimer? Are these bolts actually less safe vs. standard modern fare, given the loads exhibited in a lead fall? If they are less safe, it seems irresponsible to use them, especially if they look like standard 3/8" to the common looker. I have never placed a bolt, and generally clip bolts on modern routes with confidence, however this type of practice seems strange. Maybe the disclaimer is just for legal protection, although it seems that if the bolts are generally acceptable, a more blanket statement applying to all fixed pro is more suitable. These statements are common in many guidebooks, suggesting that all fixed pro be inspected thoroughly (although I don't think anyone does this on modern sport climbs). Maybe Dallas or someone familiar with route developing could chime in about this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 I've fallen on some of the old bolts there. The routes are good and you use whats there to climb them. When you consider some of the runouts(50 feet, whole pitches) in the NW, a few manky bolts is nothing. People used to regularly climb in hiking boots with Goldline rope and hip belays runout above manky pitons. Â Plus, you climb better above old bolts. Gives you focus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 I guess reading the document, it sounded like these were new routes being put up with non-standard hardware. Rusty bolts on old routes are generally a good motivation to get focused. Shiny bolts on new routes should be as reliable as the rock allows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stavrogin Posted June 27, 2005 Author Share Posted June 27, 2005 i think there were some routes that were put up and then it was later realized that the bolts used were of lesser strength that the standard hardware. there was a sheet included with kloke's new guide that listed these routes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 That makes more sense. So it is not a recurring theme, merely an isolated set of cases? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stavrogin Posted June 27, 2005 Author Share Posted June 27, 2005 yeah, thats my understanding of it at least... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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