Dru Posted June 26, 2005 Share Posted June 26, 2005 I was invited out to Hope to help Tyler (tlinn) develop his local crag. "Bring your drill" read the email. I was the belayer last year when we climbed "The Sting" a 4 pitch 10a on the same crag. What I remember most about that was the North North Arete style bush crawl on the second pitch, on which Tyler was attacked by wasps. Apparently he has rigged a nice bypass so you don't have to climb this pitch anymore. Anyways this time I met tyler at the coffee shop, we drove out to the crag, hiked in to the cliff with Tyler showing off his hard earned local knowledge, by avoiding all the tick-infested bushes with a traverse through the forest. Arriving at the base of "First Blood" , a nice single pitch 5.6 crack climb that will one day be the 1st pitch on a 5-pitch line up the crag, we got to work. Today we were going to clean and climb some projects on either side of First Blood. Tyler started scrubbing an arete on the right and I began on a slab and face on the left. I forgot how much I like scrubbing. It reminds me of opening presents on Christmas morning you never know what's going to be under the moss. 9!!! hours later, our pitches were clean and we had avoided dehydration and suspension trauma, just barely. Tylers route was bolted and worked but not sent, mine was not bolted because the drill was out of juice. Just as well because a good rain storm should markedly improve the friction on this pitch despite my efforts with the broom. As darkness fell I staggered into the Hope Chevron for some much needed food. I was nearly arrested by the RCMP as a deadbeat, I was wearing Carharrts that were more duct tape than canvas and covered in the vilest dirt and filth. As I stared into the washroom mirror i had to laugh, with all the dirt sticking to the stubble on my face, for once in my life I had a real Dirt Lip. One day this crag will be an enjoyable destination if you are on your way to Skaha or weathered off Yak... but not quite yet. Tyler at work. I had forgotten how much of a workout scrubbing is, I know I'm weak but this worked muscles I didn't know I had. I expect I will be sneezing out dirt-crusted boogers for the rest of the week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 Way to go, Dudes! Sure beats a day at work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stemalot Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 ...I was nearly arrested by the RCMP as a deadbeat... Yeah, don't mess with this guy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlinn Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 Hey, I think I saw that guy at the Blue Moose! That was a lot of work but well worth it. Thanks Dru! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 Who, Brian Dennehy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlinn Posted July 2, 2005 Share Posted July 2, 2005 I sent the arete yesterday which was a lot of fun. Drew's slab pitch has gotten a lot stickier with the rain and is ready to go. The first pitch of the Drew-Tyler link-up is in great shape but the last pitch is still a bit mossy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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