Sharkfin Col Bypass

[cmonster]

I seem to remember someone posting beta (not sure if it was in this forum) on a bypass of Sharkfin Col (we want to get onto the Boston Glacier) that did not require the 5.7 moves in the Col and all the heartache. Anyone remember/know anything about the bypass? Does it even exist?

[john_methot]

In Selected Climbs, page 133, Buckner/North Face, Boston Basin approach, Nelson describes how to access the Boston Glacier via the Boston/Sahale Col.

I did Sharkfin last September and no 5th class moves were required to get into Sharkfin Col. It depends on snow level on the Quien Sabe glacier. Any recent beta anyone?

[Kyle_Flick]

Two weeks ago there was a snow ramp that took you right into the Col. It was loose 3rd to 4th class at most.

[hakioawa]

We did Sahale via Quien Sabe glacier and Forbidden peak this weekend. The glacier was just starting to open up. No major crevasse problems as all on the Quien Sabe. From the top of Forbidden it looked as if the Boston glaicer was really opening up though.

There was a steep snow ramp/couior up to the base of shark fin. If you are comfortable on steep snow it looked like you could get to the base of Shark fin with out too much trouble. We saw a couple of groups make good time through there. Things were melting out pretty fast and I doubt it will hold up long.

[pms]

Kit Lewis described to me a route that he uses. I used it the last time I was there, even though I made a route finding mistake, and ended up making a rapel. From very near (east) of the popular start: A gully angles up and right towards the ridge separating Boston Basin from Boston Glacier. The tricky part is figuring out where to leave the gully to the left (west). 4th class climbing quickly leads to the ridge, at a point where you can access the Boston Glacier with out a rapel. Not paying attention, we continued up the gully (not recommended)to the ridge. I think I had a good look at the area Kit described, and pictures (Beckey Guide) show it also. Hope this helps. Jim

[Mr._Blister]

Armed with Jim's description, Bob Davis and I went right to this point several years ago when heading to the N. Ridge of Forbidden. As Jim said, take the right-slanting gully (snow filled when we were there) that starts several hundred feet right of the traditional Sharkfin Col starting point. About half to two-thirds of the way up, look for greyish shattered rock on your left, and scramble up the same. Don't go to the top of the gully. Follow the greyish broken rock up and left by the path of the least resistance to a notch in the ridge, and you will likely find a few old slings. From there, a short, single-rope rap puts you on the Boston Glacier.

I hope this helps. We walked right to it and gained considerable time on the groups messing around at Sharkfin Col. Also, we were able to bring just one rope.

Need more info? E-mail me off line at johnsha@expedia.com.

John Sharp

[john_methot]

Even though we read the above description several times before going, we still ended up at the top of the gulley! Downclimbed and took the [climber's] left gulley. We still rapelled (off a questionable chockstone) onto the glacier and over the schrund (handy bridge right now).

We took this route 1) to avoid the 5th class in Sharkfin Col proper and 2) because Beckey specifically says it's a double rope rap to the glacier from the col. 2) is not true at the moment - it is probably half of a single rappel from the Col to the glacier, but getting longer every day.