[TR] NEWS,SEWS- NW Corner, SW Rib 6/4/2005

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Climb: NEWS,SEWS-NW Corner, SW Rib

 

Date of Climb: 6/4/2005

 

Trip Report:

 

Pictures Here http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=5229

dont know how to post em in edit.

Aaron Z and I climbed the NW corner on NEWS and the SW Rib on SEWS yesterday 6-4. The Approach is mostly snow free right now, and boots or approach shoes would be equally suitable. Both routes are snow free and offered very fun climbing.

 

NEWS is a great climb to challenge a 5.9 climber. It offers multiple high quality pitches with technical cruxes and/or strenuous climbing. The route is completly dry except for some water in the alcove above the dihedral. The descent off NEWS has continuous snow in the couloir above the chockstone, requiring hardish snow down climbing if you only perform single rope raps (scary in rock shoes). I would recommend double rope raps for this route (or at least the rappel from the top of the couloir to the chockstone) until the couloir melts out.

 

Started the SW rib above the cockstone, but below the 5.8 tips traverse in Becky. This resulted in heavily Lichened climbing with some loose rock. The 5.6+ slab and twin cracks pitches are very good. Overall, a great, although long, day out.

 

Gear Notes:

Small Nuts

Double Set Cams (.3-4) could have used fewer small cams, although doubles in the large sizes was very nice for the NW corner. You could get by fine with one #4 if you leap-frogged it up a ways, or like longish runouts on strenuous offwidth

 

Approach Notes:

Perfect via Blue Lake

Edited June 5, 2005 by TrogdortheBurninator

[Chriznitch]

cool pics--much appreciated

[John Frieh]

Way to link 'em up!

[mec]

the NW corner is a fun one. I agree, it is strenuous for both the flake pitche and the offwidth pitch.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

BTW, I have summit shots of the parties on SEWS and Concord around 1:00 PM or so. If you'd like a copy, PM me.