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Sunset Amphipheater HW


OlegV

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Anybody climbed the Sunset Amphipheater HW? Summitpost.com lists this climb as grade V.

Who graded it?

 

On summitpost, whoever writes the route description grades it. Gauthier's book has the ice cap graded at III but I don't see a grade for the headwall.

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Oleg, PM Mike and ask him personally. That thing looks fucking hairy from the close up shots I've seen, which haven't even been that close. It would be a serious, chossy, 1500 foot rock climb. I'm guessing it would be similar to the Willis Wall without the avalanche and icefall danger.

 

Talk to Mike though, he's seen it up close, I haven't.

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BC

I was flying by, so I didn't get a sense of the snow conditions. I hear that there is a crust with soft snow underneath high on the Tahoma Glacier. I also saw a lot of evidence of major slides... LOTS and they were MAJOR. Though I suspect things are settling out by now as it's been a few days. Also, a few parties have summited on the Tahoma.

Ptar Ridge, Mowich and Lib looked VERY FAB and the weather report is quite reasonable for the next week.

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