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Baker Conditions?


jrwclimbs

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Me and 2 gumbys (that makes 3) attempted the Summit via the heliotrope approach on the weekend of May 5/6. Drove a monster 4x4 (with chains) to within 1.5 miles of TH. It was melting fast so you are probably right about currently less than 1 mile. Snowshoes or ski's are advised. We and several other parties were forced to camp at the Hogsback (6000')due to a small storm that blew through on Saturday afternoon. We initailly planned to camp at the black buttes. The wind blew all night seemingly loading the south western facing slopes so we decided we would not go for the summit Sunday and sleep in. Sunday morning we climed to the Black Buttes with easy route finding, most crevases were still covered. We turned back at 9000' due to warm temps, a lot of fresh snow and no sunscreen.

One party returned to the Hogsback prior to us leaving and reported the conditions at the Roman wall as thigh deep fresh and conditions were "Ass". They had turned back reinforcing our decision not to push it.

 

A large group from Canada and several skiers were going for it (the summit) but none caught us decending so no report above 9000'.

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I know that large group from Canada. They summitted by using inexperienced neophytes breaking trail to batter down the snow into a huge boot-packed trench all the way to the summit and back. No casualties. They are going to be on Sulphide Gl. this weekend but are wise enough to take skis this time! (Advanced warning).

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Which route?? I was up to about 8500-8700 on Baker Saturday. The Railroad Grade was in good shape up to there. Snow was firm but wet and heavy. The glacier appeared to be in good shape up to that elevation, the peak pyramid was shrouded in clouds so I can't comment on much further past that elev. FS Rd 13 is melted out and snow free to within less than a mile from the trailhead/bridge.

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