Liberty Bell TR for 5/5/2001

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Trip Report - Short Version

Get up early.

Drink Coffee.

Call in sick to work.

Drive to Leavenworth.

Drink more coffee.

Climb several easy multi-pitch routes and thump chest.

Drink Beer.

Drive to Carlton and listen to live Bluegrass band at the gas station.

Drive to Winthrop. Get campsite. Drink more beer.

Go to open mike night at the country bar. Bad idea. Drink more beer.

Wake up with head ache.

Drink coffee.

Drink more coffee.

Drink even more coffee.

Climb to base of route.

Climb four pitches in snow, ice, and wind.

Wish you were back in Winthrop drinking beer.

Take fall.

Get saved by old rusty piton. Thank Fred Beckey.

Summit.

Rappel.

Get rope stuck while pulling rappel.

Cry.

Wiggle rope.

Get out knife.

Thank God when rope miraculously comes free.

Finish rappel.

Return to car.

Drink more coffee.

Drive home.

 

Trip Report - Long Version

 

After a day of warm, sunny climbing on Castle Rock in Leavenworth (checked out Midway - three pitches of exposed 5.6 - great route - my kinda climbin'), we headed to Liberty Bell. I had promised Todd and Jeff that I would climb it with them last year, but Jon, Brian and I wound up doing it instead. Conditions were much different this time around.

The locals in Winthrop warned us about avalanche conditions, but we decided to go up anyway and snowshoe around. We left the cars with the gear, just in case the climbing looked good. It was cloudy, 25 degrees, and snowing when we left the parking lot.

The snow turned out to be pretty well consolidated because it was taking a beating from the wind and all the loose stuff was pushed up through the notch between Liberty Bell and Concord (or is it Lexington?). Anyway, we slogged up to the notch (see attached picture). Todd didn't like the looks of it and decided to head back. Jeff and I aren't that smart. It looked like a real Mark Twightish sort of adventure so we went for it.

The trick was getting into the route. The route starts above a cliff and around the corner from where we were. To get there, you traverse a ledge over a cliff and go to a chimney. In the summer this was no big deal, but this time the ledge was covered in snow and verglas. We almost gave up before I scrambled up an icy ramp and set up a belay. I belayed Jeff down and out onto to the ledge (see attached picture - the last I took before the camera froze solid), where he set up protection to keep us from rolling off of it in case we slipped. He then belayed me over and we headed up the chimney. All of the rock was covered with snow and verglas. Because of the conditions, we were in boots instead of shoes. Not bad at first, but I wasn't sure I would be able to make the friction moves higher up.

From the chimney, Jeff led the second pitch up a dihedral/chimney. I remember the moves being a little awkward when the route was dry, but with the route covered in snow and ice, it was nearly impossible. We actually had to chip the ice away and move snow to find holds and cracks for protection.

The third pitch was no better. Low angle rock covered with snow and ice. I fell four or five times on a couple of the moves. Reminiscent of Mt Stuart, it was like taking a ride on a cheese grater. Needless to say, I need to buy a couple more small wire nuts, they are forever implanted on the finger tip traverse! To make matters even worse, I overprotected the pitch and created such rope drag that it took all my strength with both legs to haul the rope once I finally got the belay set up.

From the third pitch we scrambled to the summit at 5:30 - five and a half hours after arriving at the notch. We had been in a constant 30-50 mph wind at 20 - 25 degrees the entire time. Since it's only four easy pitches, we left all the food and water at the notch. I was working on a granola bar and eight cups of coffee. We were cold and just wanted to get down.

I had bad memories from making the rappel the first time so we decided to rappel the route instead. Besides, the wind was blowing so hard through the notch, I was honestly afraid we would be blown out over the Northern side of the gully without any way to get our feet on the ground. At one point on our rappel we got the rope so badly stuck while pulling it that we actually considered getting the knife out. Neither of us could stand the thought of going up to retrieve it. Jeff gave it one last wiggle and voila! it came free.

We ended up at the base of the route at 7:30. It took seven and a half hours to climb and descend. We were back at the car at 8:30 just as it was getting dark.

 

[dbb]

wow, too eerie.

exactly one year ago (5/5/2000) I had a simmilar day on the same route.

I was taking a few friends up the route in cold, early season conditions. The entire second pitch was covered in ice and made for cool, but difficult climbing. We froze our butts off all day, and got the rope stuck on the rap (from regular bolted station). One last tug saved my new 8 mm rope from the serrated teeth of my knife!

[backcountrydog]

hey cc

sounds like quite a trip. from your description it kind of sounds like you were on the sw face but your concern of being blown out on the north side of the gully makes me wonder since the rap for the sw face is already on the n side of the gully. maybe you meant the east side of the gully or were on a different rte. just wondering and good job, whatever rte, in those conditions.