BCMike Posted May 24, 2005 Posted May 24, 2005 I've read several of the posts here about C-D, but am still a little unsure of a couple details. I have done this route before several years ago in September, on hard packed glacier conditions and everything was very straigforward. I'm planning on going next weekend (May 28-29), and was hoping to get a better idea of what conditions to expect this time of year. I've heard news of soft snowpack and elevating temperatures recently. Is avalanche danger on this route a consideration? Would it be advisable to wear transceivers? Also, would snowshoes or skis be advantagous? We plan to camp at Heliotrope ridge and do an alpine start to the summit. We are a group of 4, all with cravass rescue training but little mountaineering experience. Thanks for any advice. Quote
ashw_justin Posted May 25, 2005 Posted May 25, 2005 You can minimize your exposure to the most predictable avalanche conditions (wet, warm slides) by being down off of the Roman Wall before it is in the sun for any significant amount of time. Get an early start to minimize the risk and pay attention for signs of instability. I'd only take transceivers if you actually have a realistic plan for how they might help you, i.e. you expect that there will be someone who is not attached to you and also has a beacon, shovel, and probe and can come save you. I mean you could take transceivers and climb/descend the Roman Wall one by one if you really wanted to be avy-careful... of course this is never done but could be, but then if someone gets avied off of the Roman Wall chances are they are ending up in a crevasse. Actually if you look at the current mountain weather forecast you'll see that freezing levels are fairly low over the weekend with cloudy weather, so the chances of warm slides will be reduced and the snowpack may very well be somewhat stabilized by cooling down after the warm days during the week... http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/total_forecast/text_only.php?wfo=sew&zone=waz017&county=wac061 And I would take skis or a splitboard, of course, if you're comfortable with the added technicality and risks involved. It is really nice to have skis on going both directions this time of year. But only do it if you are backcountry-competent. Quote
BCMike Posted May 25, 2005 Author Posted May 25, 2005 Thanks for the advice, and the link. We plan on getting an early start so we should be up and down Roman wall before it gets too much (if any) sun. I suppose there probably will be several teams there being the long weekend. I would love to take a split board, but I don't think I'll be able to get a hold of one and I'm not comfortable enough on tele skis yet. Looks like we'll end up slogging it on foot. Should still be fun, it's been too long since I've done a trip in the mountains. Mike Quote
Marmot74 Posted May 25, 2005 Posted May 25, 2005 I'll be up on the same route in a group of 3 guys. Look for the green Hilleberg Akto tent Hopefully we get decent weather for a summit attempt. Quote
BCMike Posted May 26, 2005 Author Posted May 26, 2005 I'll be up on the same route in a group of 3 guys. Look for the green Hilleberg Akto tent Hopefully we get decent weather for a summit attempt. I hope so too. I'll look out for you. I'll be in a dark green 2-person tent with my girlfriend and another couple. We plan to arrive Saturday afternoon and stay till Sunday night or Monday morning. Quote
letsroll Posted May 26, 2005 Posted May 26, 2005 looks like it is going to be a regular CC party up there. You guys put in the boot track for me. I am taking a couple friends up there as well. Anybody taking booze and some cards Quote
thelawgoddess Posted May 26, 2005 Posted May 26, 2005 I'll be in a dark green 2-person tent with my girlfriend and another couple. that sounds quite cozy! we'll be anxiously awaiting multiple tr's. and don't forget you digital cameras please!!! Quote
Marmot74 Posted May 26, 2005 Posted May 26, 2005 What time does your team plan on going for the summit if weather cooperates? Quote
robert Posted May 26, 2005 Posted May 26, 2005 Man, it is sounding down right crowded. I will be up there with a group of eight including some teenagers so we will be pretty easy to spot. Are you guys planning to camp at the Hogsback or the Black Buttes? We will be at the Buttes. Given the high temps I am thinking that we will be out of camp by 2am. Quote
Marmot74 Posted May 26, 2005 Posted May 26, 2005 We also plan for the Buttes and a simular departure time. Going to be a very cozy area. laugh. Quote
BCMike Posted May 26, 2005 Author Posted May 26, 2005 I'll be in a dark green 2-person tent with my girlfriend and another couple. that sounds quite cozy! we'll be anxiously awaiting multiple tr's. and don't forget you digital cameras please!!! The other couple will have their own 2-person tent! Anyway, I hadn't thought of a percise departure time, but probably around 2am Sunday morning, weather permitting. We'll probably camp at the buttes if it doesn't look too crowded when we get there, and if we have any energy left after getting up to the hogsback (I'm so out of shape ) Quote
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