NEWBIE with questions on Kautz Glacier this August

[acmcmurray]

I began mountaineering this last semester while in Chile. I've rocked climbed for 3 years. While in Chile, I climbed numberous volcanoes, took an ice climbing course which included glacier rescue techniques, setting up anchors on shoe and ice, etc.

 

I feel that this experience will be sufficent for a 3-man party on Kautz Glacier route on Rainer sometime after August 12th, 2005. I have purchased the guide book, looked over the route, have all the available gear, pickets, screws, rope, tools, axes, etc.

 

I was wondering what exactly I should be expecting the bivy site around camp Hazard, the glacier travel on Kautz (in terms of crevasses, etc) and then the descent. What equipment/gear I should bring during this time of year? The guide book although excellent does not go into great detail about the route. I was wondering if any of you could give me some advise, recommendations, or beta on anything in general about the mountain and specifically the route. Will I need pickets, what I can expect, etc. Thanks a lot!!! And sorry this is so long.

[acmcmurray]

If not the Kautz Glacier Route, what would be a good route to hit up around August 12th?

[fenderfour]

Emmons or DC

 

Keep your plan to climb The Kautz, just have a backup route in case the Kautz is out of shape. Think Emmons or DC for backup.

[Chriznitch]

definitely go for it. we did it last august and it was great. bring a couple ice screws and glacier gear for sure. camp hazard is pretty awesome and offers many bivy sites with rock windbreaks--and sometimes flowing water! don't camp too close to the ice cliff as it's falling lots that time of year in the afternoon--get an early start on summit day.

 

[Fairweather]

The Kautz has usually been a good all-season route, but the chute might be getting icy by August. Don't camp at Hazard...the climb is still a reasonable day from 9600 feet at the base of The Turtle.

 

The NP climbing rangers often fix a rope in the chute if it gets too icy, but I wouldn't count on this in your plans. Also, I wouldn't get too bogged down with hardware. Maybe an extra tool for the leader (which you most likely won't use), a couple screws and a picket for the team.

 

Also, move fast in the debris gully below Hazard on the way back.

 

Honestly, I've never been inspired by the Kautz climb. I think the Emmons route is much more scenic/spectacular and the crowds aren't all that bad midweek.

 

 

What can you tell me about climbing Tupungato?

[sweatinoutliquor]

Hey Chris, Actually we didn't climb this in August... It was July 7th. Conditions were pretty much perfect though. Conditions this August may be similar to last years July if it keeps snowing like this. I would expect that the crevasse negotiation on the upper part of the route would maybe be a bit trickier, but not by too much. Overall it's a fun route. Do plan on a backup though, just to be safe!