Lost Charms at Static Point

[Baltoro]

I'm looking to go to Static Point and climb Lost Charms. Relative to the rest of the climbs there it sounds to be the least runout according to Sky Valley Rock guidebook. Does anybody have any good input on this route? Does the guidebook description hold true? Any info you all have would be great. Thanks!

[bigwalling]

I don't think there are too many bolts on it. I went out there to do it 2 years ago but did Online instead. Charms looked to be more of a crack pro thing, where as Online is more of a sport climb.

[chucK]

Lost Charms is a fun and moderate route at Static Point.

 

I would not say Lost Charms is not runout. There are not unlimited gear-placement options, and many of the placements are for the smallest gear. If you feel fairly confident on Static 5.7 and below, you should be fine. If you're constantly jonesin' for a piece at every 5.6 move, you are not going to have a good time. The climbing on Lost Charms is not as predominantly no-holds friction climbing as most of the other Static routes. Because of that, many find it less intimidating.

 

Bring a lot of small cams and nuts. Plus a couple cams and/or nuts in the 1-2" range for a couple of the belays. You might want a screamer for the single bolt, which is not very inspiring and at a cruxy spot.

 

Routefinding is an issue. The first two pitches are somewhat undefined. The "hidden" belay bolts indicated in the Cramer guide are, I believe, non-existent. If you stray just a bit too far right, lured by the bolts out there, you will be on Shock Treatment, a great route, but significantly harder.

 

For the descent you can rap over to Online from the top, so leave your stuff at the base of Online. You can also forgo the last pitch by traversing directly left to the anchors at the top of the Online crux.

 

"Great Flake" pitch on Lost Charms

 

I have not done the 10b extension. I backed off right at the start due to hard climbing, bad well-spaced bolts, and bad anchors! So anyway, I wouldn't recommend that part to you.

[Baltoro]

Thanks for the input! Now hopefully it won't rain.

[mattp]

I've climbed the route and ChucK's beta is good. We did the start labelled as "The Pillar" in the Sky Valley guide, and it didn't seem too bad to me though I don't really mind 1/4" bolts on 5.9 slabs if I'm in the right frame of mind. I led the 384v "Green Lycra Crab Traverse" variation at the top, and this seemed OK as well. Expect funky bolts for any face climbing, because I don't think anybody has upgraded them.