Silent Running - Three O'Clock Rock, Darrington

[offwidthclimber]

It's not a "peak" but still some good Cascade climbing! I posted this to rec.climbing a while back and figured it would be a good one to add to the archives here.

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Silent Running 5.9+, II+

North Buttress, Three O’ Clock Rock

Darrington, WA

 

Overview: Darrington is home to large granite domes in a forested, mountainous environment. In fact, a good portion of the climbing is located in the federally protected Boulder River Wilderness area. Climbs in the region range from short single pitch test pieces to long, all day free routes and multi-day aid efforts. Although Darrington is mostly a slab climbing paradise, there are reportedly some good cracks around as well. The most intriguing (and excellent) fact about the area is that despite all the clean, beautiful granite and fantastic routes, Darrington goes relatively unnoticed. Perhaps it’s the fabled rain, or dense forests, or maybe there’s no real explanation at all. At any rate, Darrington is a great, uncrowded climbing area, with plenty of unexplored rock, excellent existing routes, and beautiful scenery.

 

How to get there (from the Seattle area): Take Hwy 530 east from I-5 to the small town of Darrington and then follow the Mountain Highway signage. A few miles out of town, on the Mountain Highway, there will be a clearly marked gravel USFS road on the right (#2060), adjacent to a campground on the left side of the highway. Follow USFS road #2060 up the hill for approximately 5.5 miles to a fork in the road. Keep heading up the right fork about another half mile until a wide turn-out type spot appears. This is the trailhead for the Squire Pass Trail, indicated by a tacky Volvo hubcap nailed to a tree on the right side of the road.

 

Approach: From the hubcap marker, enter the darkness through the trees and follow the trail uphill for about 30 minutes to reach the climb. The trail starts as an old logging road and eventually turns into a proper trail, climbing steadily upward through dense forest and into Boulder River Wilderness Area. There is no mistaking Three O’ Clock and Silent Running. You’ll know you’re there when the trail breaks out of the forest, traverses a short boulder field, and runs right into the bottom of a large, broad slabby apron of rock garnished with small bushes. This is the start of the climb. To the left is a higher slab, separated from the North Buttress and Silent Running by a prominent bushy gully/corner.

 

The climb: Pitch 1: From where the trail meets the rock, climb directly upward on easy friction slab, immediately left of the small crack and bushy flake. About 30 feet straight up and beyond the top of the crack is the single bolt on this pitch. Clip the bolt and continue past, just right of a small overhang and maple bush, to the obvious chain anchors. (5.6) Pitch 2: Trend upward on 5.7 – 5.8 terrain past 6 bolts. There is a decent runout between the third and fourth bolt (maybe 40 feet), but solid rock and good friction eliminates any pucker factor. Obvious chain anchors mark the top of the pitch. (5.8) Pitch 3: The crux pitch is amply bolted for your pleasure. Follow 8 or 9 bolts, including a handful with funky homemade hangers, past two 5.9+ cruxes – one near the second bolt and the other occurring right before the last bolt. The pitch ends at a set of obvious bolted sling anchors. This pitch yields excellent rock and stellar friction

climbing. (5.9+) Pitch 4: Some sporting runout (50 feet or so between the second and third bolt… if you can find the third bolt!) takes you up and slightly left past 4 bolts (and a fixed piton behind a flake) to another set of fixed belay anchors. Don’t get suckered into going too far left to the sling anchors on the other side of the corner

system/gully. (5.8) Pitch 5: Continue up and right on solid, nondescript 5.8 friction slab to easier ground, passing 5 bolts on your way. The fixed anchors are below a series of slab roofs, bushy terrain and scattered trees. (5.8) Pitch 6 and 7: Apparently, two more pitch will take you to the very top of the slab’s shoulder via a swatch of rock nestled between bushy corners and flakes. The visible bolts on this pitch look like old rusty ¼ inchers, which they are (1/4 inchers that is), but I've been told that they are painted red, and are not actually rusty. The pitches are 5.9 and 5.10a and have some good varied climbing on them. Wish I would have known so I could have continued on! I've been told some small gear may be useful for the last pitch.

Descent: Double rope rappel the route. All belay anchors are fixed and of solid state. A walk off looks like a royal pain in the ass, including thrashing down slabby, steep, brushy, wet, unpleasant terrain. Save yourself some trouble and time – carry an extra rope and rappel.

 

Gear: Although a light rack to 2” seems to be the standard suggestion, don’t bother if you're doing the first 5 pitches only. In all honesty, the only worthwhile place to pro is in the crack on the lower part of the first pitch (which you can pretty much friction to the top of without using your hands) and on a flake a little higher up, below the bolt. This is 5.4 - 5.6 terrain, and if you’re not up for a little runout on the easy start, then you’re probably not going to be too thrilled about the steeper, unprotectable 5.7 - 5.8 runout up higher. I would suggest maybe taking a single piece in the 1” – 2” range to stuff in the top of the crack on the first pitch, otherwise 9 quickdraws will suffice. There are no

worthwhile gear placements beyond pitch 1. As previously mentioned, two ropes are needed for the rappels. Bring along an extra sling in case you need to remove or back up any of the existing slings at the belay on top of the third pitch. Some of the bolt hangers are interestingly enough speckled with varying shades of gray paint, making them difficult to spot among the granite, particularly when you’re 40 feet out, wondering exactly which way to trend.

If you're heading up the last two pitches (6 and 7), as mentioned before, apparently a few smaller pieces to supplement bolts are recommended.

 

References: For a nice topo/reference, see Matt Perkins’ website: http://www.seanet.com/~mattp/Darr/norbut.htm

 

The topo and description in Smoot’s Rock Climbing Washington guide (Falcon) is vague and… well… do yourself a favor and refer to the detailed, updated information available on Perkins’ website if you’re planning on going.

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[Bronco]

Climbed this route (except pitch 7) yesterday on my first day of real slab climbing.

 

Road is in good shape to the trailhead and doable in a car. Bugs are in full force so I'd recomend some juice or a cigar.

[JayB]

I can't believe that this was your first slab outin. You live so close to Static. What a slacker.

 

At any point during the climb did you turn to your belayer with a wild look in your eye and scream "There's no time!!!!!!"?

 

For posterity.

 

Pitch 7 is the best pitch on the climb. A#2 camalot and 4-5 tiny cams to 1/2" should be (more than) adeqate for leaders who are competent at the grade. I have some photos that I will post eventually.

[Bronco]

At any point during the climb did you turn to your belayer with a wild look in your eye and scream "There's no time!!!!!!"?

 

Yes!

 

Pitch 7 is the best pitch on the climb.

 

Now you tell me.

 

I forgot to mention that I was wearing my board lasted shoes. Everyone knows that board lasted shoes on slab are suck. If only I had better shoes, I could have sent the last pitch.