Leavenworth dirt route questions

[slothrop]

Anyone know when a second pitch was put in above Poultry in Motion at Clem's Holler in Leavenworth? It's pretty dirty (but good) slab climbing after a couple moves up a thin flake, ending at the Honky's Lament anchor with the huge rap rings. I'm curious because it's not in the new guidebook.

 

I'm also curious if anyone's climbed Sweet Home on Condor Buttress... is it in this photo, left of or in the broken-up area? How about some of the other routes on the main slab, particularly Heads?

 

[slaphappy]

2nd pitch of Poultry was done about 1.5 years ago. It joins pitch 2 of honkey's at the 2nd or 3rd bolt and seems about 5.8+ maybe 5.9. It was never cleaned...

 

Sweet home is just out of photo on left.

 

Heads starts left of CA and aims for the obvious break in the middle of the overlap 80'-100' up. From there it stays 20'-50' left of CA (skirting large roofs on the right) until about 1 long pitch from the top where it breaks further to the left on easier ground.

 

Expect dirt, ticks, moments of terror, and of course, loads of fun.

 

[goatboy]

Anyone ever climb "Goat Sick" near bathtub dome???

[slaphappy]

Anyone ever climb "Goat Sick" near bathtub dome???

 

This is the second time you asked about it, why? Is it inordinately good?

 

I thought it looked intriguing years ago but after closer inspection thought it looked hard to get on and the whole left side of the crack looked completely detached. With all the good stone in the area it just didn't seem that worth it. Was I wrong?

 

[goatboy]

Good to see you're paying attention, Slaphappy.

 

It's actually an awful "dirt route," which is why I thought of it for this thread. You are correct that it's very hard to get onto (that's the dirt part) and aesthetic only for the last 15-20 feet or so. A highly UN-Recommended route -- just wanted to hear what others thought of the damn thing.

It certainly APPEARS to be nice, from a distance -- I got suckered in. Don't recommend that others do the same.

[larrythellama]

why even name some choss route that you know sucks. talk about a hedonistic thing to do.

[goatboy]

Hey Llama,

 

Not sure if you know the meaning of the word, "hedonistic," though I believe you were attempting to insult me.

 

To answer your question, the title of this thread is "dirt routes --" and Goat Sick is the absolutely worst "dirt route" I know of. That's why I thought of it.

 

I'm certainly not chest-beating about being dumb and doing one of the dumbest routes in the world.

 

Hope that answers your question.