Belay setup for crevasse climbing

[rhyang]

I was wondering what kind of belay setup people would use to belay someone who is climbing out of a crevasse. Not in a rescue situation, just for ice-climbing practice.

 

I know about setting anchors via pickets, screws, equalizing, etc. but am curious to know how people would set up something like this.

 

Thanks for any info !

[Jason_Martin]

I often build an anchor, equalize it, and then clip a locker to the powerpoint. At the powerpoint I will tie a munter hitch. The rope goes from the munter hitch to the climber.

 

After the system is set up, the climber may approach the edge of the crevase while on belay. Once he reaches the edge, he can kick off any lip or snow that might fall down on him while he's climbing. Then he can "pad" the lip with an extra ice axe. This axe will keep the rope from cutting into the lip to far. To avoid losing this axe down the hole, be sure to clip it to the rope that you are lowering on.

 

After the lip is padded, the belayer will lower the climber in until he says stop. Then the belayer will belay him out.

 

Note: If your on bare glacier ice, there is no need to pad the lip.

 

Jason

[genepires]

As you may know already, keep the screws from melting out by piling snow ontop of them and/or use v threads. If you make a anchor for a regular TR (bottom belay) I would use v threads only since you can't check them out as often.

 

Jasons use of munter hitch is superior to a belay device on the anchor for good belay up and lower down.

[catbirdseat]

Of course the belayer can always make himself fast to the anchor, sit on a pack and belay from his harness if he wishes. The munter on the anchor allows one to belay standing up, warm and dry.

[knelson]

(...snip) This axe will keep the rope from cutting into the lip to far. To avoid losing this axe down the hole, be sure to clip it to the rope that you are lowering on.

 

Personally, I'd probably anchor the ice axe rather than clip it to the rope. Just in case it does want to move, I really wouldn't want the thing sailing down the rope towards me. THWACK! There probably wouldn't be much warning. If there was, it'd probably be just enough to instinctively look up and get it in the face.

 

Since we're talking a planned outing for fun, I'd bring along another anchor for it, or if in snow, just bury the leash of the axe and stomp it down good.

 

Just a thought,

-kurt

Edited March 21, 2005 by knelson

[rhyang]

Thanks guys !

[sweatinoutliquor]

If it's warm out, I may consider placing an extra screw above the primary anchor that is not equalized with the rest of the anchor system. Attach this screw to the powerpoint with a runner with maybe a couple inches of slack... I only mention this because if the conditions are right (or wrong, I guess), a weighted anchor may slowly start to shift it's position in the direction of the pull, and having an unweighted backup could be useful if the whole thing descides to move. I guess a good rule of thumb would be to check on the anchor as often as you can, especially if the climber is spending a lot of time hanging on the rope.