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AlpinistAndrew

[TR] Cutthroat Peak- West Ridge 3/15/2005

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Climb: Cutthroat Peak-West Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 3/15/2005

 

Trip Report:

Climbed the West Ridge of Cutthroat on Tuesday. It was a spectacular climb. The approach was great and the climb was for the most part excellent. The second pitch was awful though (fortunately I didn't lead it). 80ft of unprotected climbing, on ultra shitty rock; scary. We simulclimbed most of the ridge except for the last 2 pitches or so. We downclimbed and rapped the ridge. Most of the rappel slings were old and ratty so we added some of our own stuff. All and all a great climb. I look forward to climbing the South Buttress now that I know where the descent route is. The snow is melting fast up there.

 

Gear Notes:

Small rack, rock shoes, 60m rope, but shorter would be good.

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I should note also; we also used an ice axe to get up to the rocky part of the ridge, where we left a pack. I would suggest to anyone to appproach from one of the southwest gully variations, thus avoiding the ultra nasty and dangerous 2nd pitch. Also the last few pitches have a few short steep sections on fun solid rock, but if I was to do it again I would head for the 5.7/5.8 crack that splits the summit block directly on the west face... when rappelling it I found it looked cleaner and sweeter than from below.

 

As for the east colouir, no idea? but the gullies on the north side of the west ridge looked really thin. Obviously very little snow, since we were able to stay on rock on route the entire climb (in March).

Last, like Andrew said, a beautiful route with lots of diversity and sweet views of liberty bell et al., perfect approach.

 

Other things about our climb: 9 hours car to car, not even enough snow to warrant bringing skis, post holing a few hundred feet from creek to road at the end of the day, very windy on the descent, some folks would think nothing of soloing most of the ridge.

 

climb on,

~ian

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I should note also; we also used an ice axe to get up to the rocky part of the ridge

 

I bet it was nice to have that this time! wink.gif

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