Short fixing

[Farrgo]

I know that if you are soloing an aid pitch you need to set a bomber anchor for upward pull, due to the nature of system. However, if you are short fixing an aid pitch with a partner do you need to construct a bomb-proof, multi-point anchor for both upward and downward pull? It seems that if you construct a bomber anchor for downward pull with one oppositional pice, then by your partner by jugging up on the line below you, they would provide a "dynamic" belay. So, if you were to rip while short fixing, your partner would take a lot of the impact off of the anchor. I'm sure it is safer to have an anchor (or two) set up to take any imaginable force, but is it good enough to have one mainly set up for downward pull and rely on your partner's body weight to make it dynamic?

[chris]

Makes sense to me.

[bigwalling]

Here is what you do if there is bolts at least...

 

Say you have 2 bolts... clip a locker into each, then clip a figure 8 into each. Make sure you get some decent gear off the belay to avoid factor 2

[Steddy]

dude -- can you hear the ECHO down in J-Tree?

[chris]

Here is what you do if there is bolts at least...

 

Say you have 2 bolts... clip a locker into each, then clip a figure 8 into each. Make sure you get some decent gear off the belay to avoid factor 2

I'm not sure about that. By taking that approach the two bolts aren't equalized, nor is any dynamic quality added to the system. Instead, what about equalizing the bolts with a sling, locking biner at the anchor point, rope tied off with a eight-on-a-bight. Now your partner, juggin up the fixed line, adds a dynamic quality should you fall, eliminating the possibility of a factor 2 fall.

That dynamic quality could be increased by adding a screamer to the system.

What do you think?