OK what's the deal

[swaterfall]

Is it really easier to climb overhanging mixed-extreemo routes leashless? I've been swarn to my leashed tools and sabre tooths but I have been wondering if it really is easier to climb M7 and up leashless and with monos.

[Alex]

yes

[Steddy]

This post found a rather quick death, but deserves discussion in my opinion (oh i forgot IMO!).

Perhaps you've already found dual v. mono , but dry terrain isn't the subject.

Gadd touches on it here , but i think the page hasn't been updated in a while. Read about it in his book and I think you'll agree he has a little different point of view.

One point here is that when he said on his old page, "[sabretooths] are the only crampons I've ever used that you can truly smear with...", he does have a good point. A foot placement on a blank face/slab section with a single pointy moinopoint finds a whole lot less friction than two wide frontpoints which can be aided by the secondary points in some situations.

I've done an off vertical pitch in both (first generation) sabretooths and darts and noticed a beneficial difference. I was surprised.

Think of those small pockets inside corners, however, and that long mono can reach where two fat stubbies can't (amongst other situations, pro/con).

FFT.