More silent partner questions.

[Sol]

A while ago i posted asking about the sp and modified gri-gri's and such. well, i picked up a silent partner after hemming and hawwing for way too long. i used it a bit and so far I really like it. I'm wondering what size and/or brands of ropes people have found to work well with it? Also, are there any locking HMS carabiner recommendations for attaching it to the harness? Last time I used pezal attache's because they are keylocks but they ended up being way too small and made it quite a hassle to take the sp on and off. does anyone go with only a single biner to attach it to the harness instead of the recommended two? I wonder about the physics of the device this way, but if that was not a problem i think one of those big ol stainless steel lockers would be the goods. thanks ahead for any thoughts.

[shapp]

an oversize screw link is great, as it is multi directiononal, if you hunt around you should also be able to get a titanium one. This is what I have used with good results. P.S. throw in a small open ended wrench for the screw link just incase it gets stuck! I haven't actually had a problem with stainless links getting stuck though.

[Sol]

just to clarify, you use a single oversized screw link with the silent partner?

Edited January 26, 2005 by frosty_the_tradman

[shapp]

yes, the single screw link is rated to well over the strength of the silent partner. I do not see th need to use more than one. as there is no gate to break/open. For all intensive purposes for a large construction safety rated link, it can take a huge amount of force in all directions. Although a large fall onto the nut may make it hard to open, although this has not ever happend to me.

[dberdinka]

Hey foo

 

I use a single Petzl AM'D (regular locking) carabiner to attach the Silent Partner to my harness. (I don't use that carabiner for anything else)

 

Certainly not as multi-directionally strong as a stainless steel screwlink but a hell of a lot easier to deal with each time you need to detach the rope from the SP. (once on once off each pitch)

 

I orient it so if the SP is hanging off the biner (rope feeding down) the gate is facing the harness. In the event of a fall (theoretically) the SP and carabiner should be able to cleanly pivot 180 degrees without the gate mechanisim catching on anything.

 

Between the SP, your backup, your daisy(s) and whatever else you have attached to your harness (I don't tie into the end of the rope) you have to work hard to keep things from becoming a total clusterfuck. I can't imagine using two carabiners or anything smaller than the AM'D, which is pretty damn big. (See more detail below)

 

Yes, crossloading is a potential issue, but it's worked just fine. Plus this is why you always remain clipped into a back up knot. You're using a backup right!?

 

More detail on how everything is organized on my harness

 

Daisies (Metolious adjustable) are girthitched in middle, one to either side of the rappel loop, yellow always on left, blue always on right. On either side of that I have a locking AM'D carabiner, gate facing out when carabiner is oriented such that opening is at top.

 

If the pitch trends left clip SP to righthand carabiner or vise versa. Other AM'D serves as backup knot carabiner. This will help cutdown on backclips through the loop formed by the backup knot and other rope mismanagement issues.

 

By organizing carabiners outside of daisies you can actually open these things when you're weighting the daisies.

 

If you don't turn into a hermit now that you got your SP lets go climbing sometime!

[Sol]

great info darin. after using the sp with two biners like the manufactuer suggests i had a hunch that not everybody complied. yes, i use a back up knot. ususally just clove hitches and I do not pre-ty them so they don't get stuck. what about ropes, any thoughts? I could have friday off, index?

[dberdinka]

On Ropes

 

I once had a 9.6mm Sterling Marathon that rocked for freeclimbing. The rope fed very smoothly, it was very light (which makes a difference when you have to hump all the shit to the base of the cliff alone) and was surprisingly durable.

 

Soloing walls fills me up with fear so I went and bought a 10.5mm Stratos. One less thing to worry about. The feed is poor for freeclimbing but works just fine for aid. One benefit of it's high-friction feed is that you don't have to prusik the rope to pieces of gear to prevent excess feed from happening. Still though the rope is a clunker, I wouldn't get another one.

 

Jugging is hard on ropes I would get something with a very durable sheath. A Sterling Marathon 10mm or maybe one of those skinny "Big Wall" ropes marketed by that harness manufacturer in CA.