What's wrong with Figure 8s?!

[Cpt.Caveman]

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[brukb]

We used the 8 back in the eighties for hi speed raps in the Army, which is what it was designed for: rappelling. Although it does twist the hell out of the rope on raps, it produces a more smooth rappel, *especially* with a heavy pack. Smooth rappel = decreased forces on rap anchor.

 

It is also an effective belay device *if used properly*. I agree that there is more slippage with an 8 than an ATC or other plate/tube devices, but I have never had difficultly holding a fall with an 8, and the rope twist while belaying does not seem to be as much of an issue as it is with rappelling. My wife prefers the Trango Jaws because of the quick stopping ability, which is fine on bolted routes where pro is less suspect. But being an alpine trad climber, these are my priorities;

 

1. Don't fall.

2. Do everything possible to minimize impact

force on pro and anchors.

 

The slippage with an 8 that occurs in belay mode significantly reduces impact force on anchors and climbers, which, in my mind, is worth the slightly extra stopping time.

 

Although I also often use something else for belays/raps on alpine trad routes due to weight issues, the advantages of an 8 in this situation (raps with heavy pack, minimizing impact forces)make it well worthwhile.

Bruk