Anchor Forces

[EV]

Assuming a 200 pound climber, ten feet about his last placement, in the event of a fall, is there any way to determine what the force would be on the anchor in terms of kilo Newtons?

I guess I'm looking for some mathematical equation.

Thanks.

[Alex]

Yes, it is a simple physics problem. I do not know the equation, but here are some conversion factors to start you off:

1 pound force = 4.45 newtons

1 newton = 0.225 pounds force

1 kilonewton = 225 pounds force

You would also have to calculate acceleration due to gravity, and also how much energy is absorbed due to rope stretch. One key component is how much rope is actually payed out at the time of a fall, and what is the rope elongation?

I remember Petzl publishing some pretty detailed information on this in of of their catalogues.

Alex

[erik]

look on petzl's website

http://petzl.com/FRENG/tech/techframe.html

they have a fall force calculator and all the math an aspiring math/physics dork could ever want. plus all sorts of other cool tech stuff. i learned i how lead real rock from this site and pics from a black diamond catalogue.

 

[philfort]

Check out dbb's fall force calculator:

http://students.washington.edu/dbb/index.html