days_sail Posted April 10, 2001 Share Posted April 10, 2001 Hey Folks! My friend Dave and I taking some time off to put some miles on the rock....we have a few months and I was wondering what some of your favorite climbs are down here....I am looking for some really good desert spires..so if you have any in mind..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted April 11, 2001 Share Posted April 11, 2001 The clasic route on Castleton tower is good, and I hear there are some good routes on the north side. You should rent this stupid movie called, "Slaughter of the Inocent," befor you go . It was partly filmed on Castelton. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forrest_m Posted April 12, 2001 Share Posted April 12, 2001 For tower climbing, you absolutely must not miss Moses Tower, in Fischer Canyon in Canyonlands National Park. Even driving there can be a bit of an adventure. Primrose Dihedrals is the classic route here, goes free at 5.11+, but mid 5.10 plus aiding the bolt ladder will also get you up. 5 stars! Special descent beta: from the bolts on the shoulder below the summit, 2 60 meter raps down the old Beckey N. Face route will get you to the ground - fast and easy. On castleton tower, the Kor/Ingalls is a full on old-school 5.9+ struggle. Very satisfying, but don't be surprised if you're sketchin' out on a route put up in the early '60s! We rapped down the N. Face route a few years back, it looks very very nice. Fine Jade tower (the next tower e. from castleton) has gotten a lot of press lately, also looks nice. For cragging, if you're looking for climbing like Indian Creek but less crowded and less regulated, try the San Rafael Swell. Look for the route "Barbeque Bomber" in the guides, the whole buttress (I can't remember the name) is excellent and you can camp right at the foot of the wall! Have a great time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason_h Posted April 13, 2001 Share Posted April 13, 2001 dude- i just spent last month in moab, nice place to be. i climbed castleton via kor ingalls which was pretty good, but not amazing and also did the north face of castleton which was stellar. the first pitch says 11a, but it was just endurance, no 11a moves on it and the last pitch says 10 offwidth but much easier in my opinion. also did ancient art in the fishers which is highly recommended, the coolest summit ever! also fine jade looks dope and lightning bolt cracks on n. six shooter are suppose to be cool. and you can't go wrong in indian creek. have fun-jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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