Gear selection for "Ed's Jam"

[yakimuchacho]

Do I need a whole bunch of #1 and #2 cams to lead this or does the crack that "Ed's Jam" (at The Bend) follows have more variation and accept a variety of cam sizes? Is the crack too parallell for bomber hex placement or not? Thanks for any beta on gear selection.

[sobo]

Hi Eric,

 

It does have some variations, but you'll find a bazillion good placements in the following ranges:

 

BD stoppers: #9 thru #13

BD hexes: #6 thru #8

WC Friends: #1 thru #2.5

 

Double up in the middle range of the cams. This route is a rope-stretcher. You can save some of your "route pro" by using small nuts/TCUs at the belay. There's not much use for them elsewhere on this route.

 

Never too hard, frequent rest stances, and the jams are to die for. Best hand jammin' at the crag. You'll love it.

[dbb]

very nice route. as I recall I used 3x #2 camalot sized pieces for the upper hand crack. You'll need .75 to #1 for the steep thin crack below the tree. Hexes would work great as the crack is not very parallel. like sobo said, lots of rests and good jams.