colt45 Posted November 29, 2004 Posted November 29, 2004 Has anyone climbed Chicken Lips at Red Rocks? I'm wondering whether the route is reasonably well protected. The topo shows just a few bolts, which are apparently 1/4" and ~25 years old, so I'm hoping there is a fair amount of natural pro available in between... Quote
layton Posted November 29, 2004 Posted November 29, 2004 Jason martin and I climbed it. it is good and well protected. combine the last two pitches. it is in the painted bowl above and to the left of black orpheus, or to the right of the Eagle Wall. don't approach from the eagle wall, rather approach it from the black orpheus decent. 2 hours from car. or better yet....climb black orpheus (goes very quickly) and start the descent. you may have to do a rap or two,, o can't remember. anyway, as you traverse left from the black o', look up for the painet bowl. you have to climb an easy corner/chimney (soloable) to attain the painted bowl. have fun, and walk off the top to the top of the canyon, it's actually a fun descent. Quote
colt45 Posted November 30, 2004 Author Posted November 30, 2004 Thanks for the beta! We're going to try to head up via BO; I assume the descent is the same as for Eagle Dance/Lev29. Given some good weather (we're heading down in late Dec.), the link-up sounds like it will be a blast. Quote
layton Posted November 30, 2004 Posted November 30, 2004 nice! and don't worry about those bolts or pro. Quote
lancegranite Posted December 2, 2004 Posted December 2, 2004 The first pitch aids well for the unethical types. My partner is still grumpy about my batmaning the bolts... Quote
Jason_Martin Posted January 11, 2005 Posted January 11, 2005 If I rembember correctly there is a pitch with some steep unprotected 5.9 moves above a ledge. I think the first gear is about ten feet off the ledge, so there is a little potential to get hurt there... Otherwise the route is really quite good. Jason Quote
layton Posted January 11, 2005 Posted January 11, 2005 must'a blotted that outta the ol' memory banks, who's pitch was that Jason? Quote
Jason_Martin Posted January 11, 2005 Posted January 11, 2005 That one was definately mine. Jason Quote
lancegranite Posted January 13, 2005 Posted January 13, 2005 Any memories of what else was on that ledge? If my memories are correct, A fine looking (and possibly unclimbed) crack to roofy flare thing takes off from that stance. And just for the record, I was seconding the first pitch, climbing it in 4 minutes. (we were speeeed climbing) Quote
Dru Posted January 13, 2005 Posted January 13, 2005 Any memories of what else was on that ledge? If my memories are correct, A fine looking (and possibly unclimbed) crack to roofy flare thing takes off from that stance. And just for the record, I was seconding the first pitch, climbing it in 4 minutes. (we were speeeed climbing) where's your gps record and 3 witnesses then? this website seems to summon up these unsubstantiated speed claims. i hope you had a good harness for your dog. Quote
lancegranite Posted January 13, 2005 Posted January 13, 2005 Sorry everyone, that was before I knew speed climbing was so very complicated. I did manage to take a dump in the bushes..... and I did it in 2 minutes. Quote
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