Exit 38 TR

Peter_Puget · September 25, 2002

A couple weeks ago I asked for info on the Valley View Crags and received some helpful beta. Here is a trip report on some other crags at 38. I know it's kinda goofy writing a trip report of these climbs but since they seem little known I thought someone might be inspired to check them out while the weather stays good. If you did all the italicized routes you'd have a really fun day of exciting climbing. They do appear on Deceptioncrags.com. If I think rating is different, I have put Deceptioncrags.com rating in ().

Lost Resort:

Left hand side has some fun routes. Right side looks not so good.

Give Your Shelf… is ok strenuous not technical 5.11a (5.11c)

Andante Favori - Continuous route very fun! Thin edges and good pro! Partner said reachy; I didn't think so. Probably easier than 10d.

Appassionata Kind of a scary move/clip reachy. 5.10d (5.10c)

Crescendo… Very fun route. Big holds at bottom crux near top. 5.11b

Andante and Crescendo are worth the long approach by themselves!

Alpinia Wall short cliff

Aperture Very fun route. Great rock. Fun hole to grab! Worth the effort to hike from Bob's or Lost Resort. 5.10 (5.11a)

Inverted…Gets too close to Aperture at the top still good continuous climbing. Only one good rest on the climb. All the clips that I thought would be hard weren't. Easier than the 11d rating.

Green Buddah Fun stemming up a steep corner. 5.10c (5.11b)

El Astronato The bad apple of this bunch but a fun warm up 5.9 (5.10b)

Presto Palace

Very short route (25 feet) Climbing is over before you know it.

Slumbersome Ridge short cliff.

To Crest The roof finish is terribly contrived. If you skirt around the roof the crux is at the start and is a slab.

DC.com says these two following are overhanging - I didn't think so.

Stemming Out Bolting two variation finishs is a bit goofy. Climbing not so great.

Imbibing This is a short route but the rock is very good. Too bad this route doesn't continue on. 5.10+ (5.11b)

The Stien

Short. Fun climbing up a corner. Too bad the corner wasn't 100 feet long. Wouldn't go to this cliff again.

[ 09-25-2002, 03:49 PM: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]

mneagle · September 26, 2002

The last exit 38 thread I mentioned some cool climbing above the Peanucle and about a 1/2 mile past the back side of the Peanucle (faint trail marked by surveyor's tape) but nobody chimed in. Has nobody been there or is nobody talking?

Peter_Puget · September 26, 2002

Several of the outcroppings mentioned in my silly TR are above the Peannacle but not a 1/2 mile away.

matt_warfield · September 26, 2002

I've been to Lost World and Alpinia and concur with PP about the quality of the routes. Don't worry about bolt count or ratings. Go have fun. Valley View West and other crags previously discussed are not on the web site. On my last visit to Bob's last weekend, somebody had an advance copy of the new Exit 38 guide, which apparently will be out imminently and looked fat (excludes Little Si). Most people up there right now are still oblivious to the new crags- many people at Peannacle and nobody at Lost World on Sunday. Have fun and [rockband] on!