Uncle_Tricky Posted September 23, 2002 Share Posted September 23, 2002 I know it's not the usual approach, but is it possible to approach from the Blue Lake side, go over the pass S. of SEWS, and then do a falling traverse past the Passenger route to access the base of the E. buttress? Anyone tried getting there that way? Also, any comments from people who've tried climbing it free instead of aiding the bolt ladders? Does a second need jumars, or is it easy to french free? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted September 24, 2002 Share Posted September 24, 2002 Trickster: the Blue Lake approach would be possible, but why...? The approach from the hairpin is ~45 minutes, with no elevation loss? You could potentially double the approach time from Blue Lake. as to free/vs french free: we went up with the attitude to seriously free it. We got to 5th pitch very fast and free and said "screw that, lets just keep going fast" so french freed a few short sections on the rest of route - still very enjoyable 5.10 climbing at that, but not desparate. Second absolutely needs no jumars. Dont bring aiders, dont bring jumars. Think "exit 38 sport hangdog french free" and thats what you will be doing if you want to - its not aid at all jugging that route would be way slower than just climbing it and yarding on a move or two!... Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoker Posted September 24, 2002 Share Posted September 24, 2002 Alex has it right. Park at the hairpin. Its a 45min approach. You wont want to fall on most of the hardware on the 5th or 7th pitch. We brought a fifi, just cruised right thru. This late in the year speed will be an issue. We did the line 3 wks ago and went out of the sun on the 5th pitch. We descended the Blue lakes trail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEF Posted September 24, 2002 Share Posted September 24, 2002 Did the route 5 years ago, in late July. I concur with Alex and Smoker. R/t from hairpin, we ditched packs at the base of the climb, carried powerbars and water, and scrambled up to the first real "crack" pitch. The 2 bolt ladders are best done free or french free, with bolts spaced close enough that the second has no problen without jumars, grabbing draws from bolt to bolt. Every other bolt at that time was a funky 1/4 incher, with homemade hangers that only accepted narrow gated biners--I don't know if that has changed. Descended the S Ridge and back to packs in rock shoes, no problem. Off to Winthrop for showers and dinner dates, and we were not late. Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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