[TR] Exfoliation Dome- Jacob's Ladder 11/11/2004

[mattp]

Climb: Exfoliation Dome-Jacob's Ladder

 

Date of Climb: 11/11/2004

 

Trip Report:

On this fine summery Veteran's Day I went up to Exfoliation Dome with my friend Jay, intending to climb Jacob's Ladder and rappel the line that Subaru Primal Quest used for their race event, about 100-150 feet south of Jacob's Ladder. We ran out of time, but it was a nice day on the rock never-the-less.

 

At this time of year, climbs on Exfoliation Dome can be a bit iffy. The Dome is a fairly large outing, and with short daylight hours, you are almost guaranteed to run into dew-covered rock as the dampness lingers an hour or two after sunrise, and sets in as much as an hour before sunset. Darrington granite offers amazingly good purchase even when wet, however, so those with a taste for this kind of think will do OK.

 

We started up the "sidewalk" not long after daylight, and it was still very slimy for the first short climb out of the streambed approach (situation normal for all but the dry summer months).

 

The rock was very cold up on the wall, and we elected to wait about an hour before tackling the crux pitch where numb fingers just aren't going to cut it for the thin edge crimping. I then spent some time cleaning a crack on this pitch and we moved a little slowly on the next two. Thus, we only completed six of the route's eight pitches before opting to retreat for a dash back down the sidewalk in failing light. I slipped and fell into a pool.

 

The route was mostly dry and, as always, the views superb. I continue to wonder why so few climbers visit the area.

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

For the "Sidewalk" approach:

approach shoes are nice, but not absolutely necessary; sneakers will do.

 

For Jacob's Ladder:

bring a "standard rack" up to 3" including tiny stoppers and small widgets; you don't need many or any doubles but you'll want the full selection. Long runners are useful, along with ten or twelve draws. Two ropes are needed for the rappels.

 

Approach Notes:

The Subaru Primal Quest race staff cut and dug a trail below the west face of Blueberry Hill; approaches to the routes north of Dark Rhythm still involve some funky scrambling but they are improved.

[waterboy]

Good report, Matt. I went up there on Oct 20 with Gary Shatswell to climb up the west buttress. We found the sidewalk equally slick and we only got one pitch up the route before being sketched by the slick rock.

[mattp]

If that first pitch was wet, you probably would have found most of the rest of the route to be unsavory as well. Bush patches soak up the rain and ooze it back out for a day or three after the rain stops.

 

Yesterday, the W. Buttress would have been fine with just a few bits of slickness here and there.

[Jopa]

I continue to wonder why so few climbers visit the area.

 

And I continue to rejoice in this fact!!

[mattp]

The crux: