Dru Posted October 11, 2004 Posted October 11, 2004 I found this posted on ukclimbing, no idea what the French site is but I bet if you Google "terrain d'aventure" you can find it... I just read this on a French newsgroup specialized in encouraging "Terrain d'aventure" ie trad climbing: Chers amis grimpants, Les formes de pratiques de l'escalade sont ils des modes où des évolution durable dans le temps? Je reviens de quelques jours à chamonix et O surprise, l'escalade làs bas n'est plus à tendance spit!!! Ainsi les intouchables au trident du tacul sont maintenant complètement déséquipé pour ne grimper quand "clean". Quelques voie du grand capucin sont en cours de nettoyage ("echo de alpage" par exemple) . "Sale athée" et aussi dans le colimateur!! Peut etre que l'exemple va venir de la principauté de Chamonix et de nos voisin d'aoste, mais en tous cas, les pro du perfo ne sont plus du tous tendance (voir la desertification des voies piola des année 90 et du refuge de l'envers des aiguilles). Translation approx.: Dear climbing friends, Are the different ways of climbing just fads or long term evolutions? I'm just back from a few days in Chamonix and, suprise suprise, climbing there is no longer "tendence bolt"!! Thus "Les Intouchable" on the Trident du Tacul have now been completely cleaned of bolts and can only be done "clean". A few routes on the Grand Capucin are being cleaned ("Echo de alpage" for example). "Sale Athée" is also lined up for treatment! The principality of Chamonix and our cousins from Aosta will perhaps set an example, but whatever, the pros of the power drill are no longer the trendsetters (the abandon of the Piola routes of the 90's and from the Envers des Aiguilles refuge confirm this). Quote
JosephH Posted October 11, 2004 Posted October 11, 2004 The French boredom threshold is no doubt a bit lower than in the U.S. - or they just figured out a sure-fire answer to their access problems. Who knows, maybe trad climbing will even return to its former definition of just "climbing"... Quote
lancegranite Posted October 11, 2004 Posted October 11, 2004 Considering that 60% of the snow and ice is gone from their mountains, They are trying to fill up the void... we will make it twice as hard to climb because we have lost half of our routes! Quote
Dr_Crash Posted October 12, 2004 Posted October 12, 2004 (edited) Considering that 60% of the snow and ice is gone from their mountains,[/i] I should go back there before it's all gone... Dru, nice translation. And your English is definitely much better than this guy's French; he/she cannot spell or use proprer grammar. (Edit: translation's not from Dru it seems; nice job anyway.) drC Edited October 12, 2004 by Dr_Crash Quote
Dru Posted October 12, 2004 Author Posted October 12, 2004 If Chamonix has been cleaned of alpine bolts, can WA PAss be far behind Quote
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