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Posted

A climber was telling me to check at the "Pioneer Trail" on the Monkey Face at Smith when I go there. He said,"Yeah, just use the bolt ladder." What is he talking about? What is a bolt ladder? How is it climbed? Do other places in the northwest have them?

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A line of bolts spaced close enough together that you can reach the next one while standing in aiders attached to the previous one. There is nothing special about it, nothing that makes it a "ladder" it's just a term for a series of bolts in blank rock, spaced about 6ft apart, give or take.

 

You climb it by std aid climbing method, or if they are close enough together, you could french-free from bolt to bolt.

 

There are bolt ladders on several aid routes in the PNW.The last few pitches of Town Crier at Index come to mind.

Posted

If you go to do the Pioneer Route, you won't need aiders to do it, the bolts are really close together. Just french-free it, (clip the bolt and pull on the draw as a hand hold to reach the next one, if you get tired have your partner take or clip the bolt into your harness).

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