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Champagne Saturday?


Bug

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If the wife okays the trip (since I've been out climbing a new peak every week for the last two weeks), the Dr may want to climb Champagne. I'm tired of those 5.4 climbs for Mounties wink.gif And such a name, I can't resist it smile.gif Would a party of 3 with the Fox be fine?

 

And is there a Web site where I could have a peak at the thing? Google failed me (I guess I failed to query appropriately). Can we summit something? Please, pretty please?

 

drC

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Oops. Three is too many. Unless we can all promise to get along. We will have to be up and moving early and keep the focus on efficiency (racking quickly, rope stacking, etc). Should be fine unless it's not. Then we have to bail on manky chalkstones and wedged pieces of rotten wood.

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I don't really know where we top out. It could be anywhere on the top of the ridge though. The route traverses right but we have to end up going way left to the descent gully for OuterSpace etc. Web site? Don't know. I just looked at the guide book. I was up there once and got up about 3/4 of a pitch when the water thing got to be too much. So I know exactly where it starts and how not to go. Catbird likes it. How bad could it be?

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If you go all the way to the ridge you can rap off the back two raps and hike up to the OS walk off. Or, after completing the 5.6 chimney (really good-CrackBolter thought it was 5.8) walk right on a ledge and rappel from a tree- it a steep/ overhanging one. You scramble down the ridge and do some more raps down gullies and eventually find yourself in the Icicle side of April Fool tower. Don't stand under the "tick tree". Scramble up to the notch and rap down the other side and then traverse back to the Easter Tower notch and rap back down the "4th Class" gully. Don't hurt yourself like I did rapping into the chimney. wink.gif

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Oh if CBS likes it it's got to be good. If 3 worries you re: pace, it may not be my best time to learn about being efficient as a team of 3, or may it? tongue.gif I've only climbed alpine as a team of two, because we all know that's what the Mounties would secretly like to be able to do for all their climbs wink.gif.

 

drC

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Thanks for the beta. But where are the smoking ledges? You left out the smoking ledges.
They are there. I have every confidence that you will find them. One thing I'm not really sure on is the second pitch. We may have stayed too far left and gone up an easy left facing corner. We think there may be more chicken heads and other "champagne bubbles" off to the right of that. Anyway, before launching off on the second pitch, look around for the higher quality climbing. I'm not even sure there is any one best way. It's kind of an adventure.
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