Bug Posted September 27, 2004 Posted September 27, 2004 Champagne is on SnowCreek wall behind Easter tower. 5 or 6 pitches of 5.7. Have rope and rack. Need smo.., er, partner. Must be able to hump up to the base in reasonable time. Will rope up for "4th class gully". PM me if interested. Quote
Alpinfox Posted September 27, 2004 Posted September 27, 2004 Sounds cool bug. If I am not supervising a beginner's toprope thing on Saturday I'd like to join you. If you have rope and rack, I can provide the other items required for this climb. Quote
catbirdseat Posted September 27, 2004 Posted September 27, 2004 That 4th Class gully has a couple of 5.8 moves on it. Quote
Bug Posted September 27, 2004 Author Posted September 27, 2004 Lock it in! You can climb with newbies Sunday. That's my plan. So there'll be two of us and they will get just as much time with a village idiot. And if it rains Sat, I want to do Champagne Sun. Quote
Dr_Crash Posted September 27, 2004 Posted September 27, 2004 And here I thought you were offering my favorite bubbly drink... drC Quote
Bug Posted September 27, 2004 Author Posted September 27, 2004 Sounds like the Fox is out. Who else wants to climb Champagne? Dr? Quote
Alpinfox Posted September 27, 2004 Posted September 27, 2004 Oh my Mr. Bug. Ye of little faith. Master Perkins has given me a hall pass, so The Fox is IN for the Champagne brunch on Saturday. Quote
catbirdseat Posted September 27, 2004 Posted September 27, 2004 I've done this route. It's pretty good. You'll like it. Quote
Dr_Crash Posted September 27, 2004 Posted September 27, 2004 If the wife okays the trip (since I've been out climbing a new peak every week for the last two weeks), the Dr may want to climb Champagne. I'm tired of those 5.4 climbs for Mounties And such a name, I can't resist it Would a party of 3 with the Fox be fine? And is there a Web site where I could have a peak at the thing? Google failed me (I guess I failed to query appropriately). Can we summit something? Please, pretty please? drC Quote
Bug Posted September 27, 2004 Author Posted September 27, 2004 Oops. Three is too many. Unless we can all promise to get along. We will have to be up and moving early and keep the focus on efficiency (racking quickly, rope stacking, etc). Should be fine unless it's not. Then we have to bail on manky chalkstones and wedged pieces of rotten wood. Quote
Bug Posted September 27, 2004 Author Posted September 27, 2004 I don't really know where we top out. It could be anywhere on the top of the ridge though. The route traverses right but we have to end up going way left to the descent gully for OuterSpace etc. Web site? Don't know. I just looked at the guide book. I was up there once and got up about 3/4 of a pitch when the water thing got to be too much. So I know exactly where it starts and how not to go. Catbird likes it. How bad could it be? Quote
catbirdseat Posted September 27, 2004 Posted September 27, 2004 If you go all the way to the ridge you can rap off the back two raps and hike up to the OS walk off. Or, after completing the 5.6 chimney (really good-CrackBolter thought it was 5.8) walk right on a ledge and rappel from a tree- it a steep/ overhanging one. You scramble down the ridge and do some more raps down gullies and eventually find yourself in the Icicle side of April Fool tower. Don't stand under the "tick tree". Scramble up to the notch and rap down the other side and then traverse back to the Easter Tower notch and rap back down the "4th Class" gully. Don't hurt yourself like I did rapping into the chimney. Quote
Dr_Crash Posted September 27, 2004 Posted September 27, 2004 Oh if CBS likes it it's got to be good. If 3 worries you re: pace, it may not be my best time to learn about being efficient as a team of 3, or may it? I've only climbed alpine as a team of two, because we all know that's what the Mounties would secretly like to be able to do for all their climbs . drC Quote
catbirdseat Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 You'll have to wrestle to determine who gets to do the first pitch. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted September 28, 2004 Posted September 28, 2004 climb to the ridge crest and then traverse it south to the short single rap above OS topout. great climbing and cool position on the wall. Quote
Bug Posted September 28, 2004 Author Posted September 28, 2004 Thanks for the beta. But where are the smoking ledges? You left out the smoking ledges. Quote
catbirdseat Posted September 29, 2004 Posted September 29, 2004 Thanks for the beta. But where are the smoking ledges? You left out the smoking ledges. They are there. I have every confidence that you will find them. One thing I'm not really sure on is the second pitch. We may have stayed too far left and gone up an easy left facing corner. We think there may be more chicken heads and other "champagne bubbles" off to the right of that. Anyway, before launching off on the second pitch, look around for the higher quality climbing. I'm not even sure there is any one best way. It's kind of an adventure. Quote
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