Dr_Crash Posted September 27, 2004 Share Posted September 27, 2004 How does it compare to the Petzl Reverso and the Trango B-52? Can you ascend the rope with all of these devices (I am only sure about the Reverso but I'd guess all autolock devices can be used as poor man's ascenders)? I want something that will rappel smoothly. I've heard a lot of good things about the Reverso except for skinny lines, which I don't have (I have a 10.2 mm and an 8.4 mm). drC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted September 27, 2004 Share Posted September 27, 2004 You cannot ascend the rope with a Reverso, B-52, or any other belay device that I know of. The autolock function of a Reverso only works when you are belaying a second from ABOVE. With a Gri-Gri you can free climb, take up slack, free climb some more, but that's a pretty sketchy way to "ascend the rope". If you do a lot of multipitch climbing, (especially in groups of three) I'd get the reverso. If you do mostly single pitch stuff, any of the standard belay devices will do the trick and be smoother and cheaper than a reverso. I've heard if you are a "substantial fellow" or climb with people of "no slight girth", then the B52 will give you a little more biting power on your brake hand, but I've never used one. I own and use a reverso, BD ATC, and a GriGri. The Matrix looks pretty similar to the reverso, but I haven't used it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted September 27, 2004 Share Posted September 27, 2004 Actually, Alpinfox, you are incorrect. The autolockers can be used as an ascender, it is even in the instructions. You just need a prussik or something to add to the mix for your second ascender. I have not seen the Matrix, but assume that since it is similar, it should work too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted September 27, 2004 Share Posted September 27, 2004 Actually, Alpinfox, you are incorrect. The autolockers can be used as an ascender, it is even in the instructions. Well I'll be damned.... Petzl Reverso page Click on "technical notice reverso" see figure 7. No backup prusik is shown in the diagram though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted September 27, 2004 Share Posted September 27, 2004 If you were to put a foot prussik where the left hand is grabbing the rope in that picture, then I think it might make things a lot easier on truly steep ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Crash Posted September 27, 2004 Author Share Posted September 27, 2004 Well I'll be damned.... Petzl Reverso page No backup prusik is shown in the diagram though. It's because we French boys have huge arms and can just pull our weight off, so we don't need a foot prusik. And I would be surprized if one would need a safety prusik with an autoblock in autoblock mode since, well, the whole point is that it does block. And Petzl would never recommend a prusik... They'd rather sell a Shunt (Actually, they show a prusik in the Reverso '04 notice.) Alpinfox, do you use the thin side of the Reverso to belay a lot, or just the shiny round things (marked in the manual as for low weight / big diameter rope)? If you use the thin side, how fast is it wearing off? It looks like it would become very sharp... Last Reverso question: they say to use a backup prusik / Shunt. Which typically also means extending the rap device off (if the backup is on the brake part of the rope, which it should IMHO). Are they just giving us some overkill or what? I certainly don't need a prusik with my ATC (though I did use one on my first couple rappels, and will if I feel I'm in a iffy situation)... drC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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