Thanks to cc.com...

[jkrueger]

Some time ago I asked a question on cc.com regarding the best thing to do regarding anchors that consist merely of two bolt hangers.

 

I had encounted such a setup at the top of a fun sport route, and it had become an eyesore of multiple slings wrapped through the hangers and a large metal ring (a bearing, maybe?) to rap off of. Besides being ugly and spooky, it was hard to set an anchor with all that crap up there!

 

Many cc.com folk replied, and it was suggested that the best thing to do was add quicklinks and chains. So yesterday (almost a year later), the anchor on the corner arete route at The Arch (Wolf Rock, OR) was equipped with quicklinks and chains - and it is a much happier route because of it!

 

I just wanted to say thanks to everyone who offered their suggestions, and let it be known that on occasion cc.com does contribute to the good of the PNW climbing community at large.

 

Strangely, the guy at Home Depot ended up just giving me the chains... karma???

[allison]

Having spent the last six years climbing on bolts that just sort of appeared like magic, I recently boght my first bits of hardware that don't go home with me at the end of the day. Of course I would never suggest that one start installing without some guidance, and I haven't, so don't flame me, but I've got to say, it feels good to put some $ into the rocks.

 

Maybe the easiest way to do that is to donate a few hangers to your favorite route-maker or -maintainer. Pro Mountain sells them, and you should buy them there. They're only a couple of bucks apiece.

 

Here's a little something for the guys who do all that stuff to support my fun:

 

[ 08-27-2002, 01:24 PM: Message edited by: allison ]

[mattp]

Thanks for the vote of confidence, Allison, but should anybody feel inclined to donate toward the maintenance of crags, I'd suggest that they turn out for a work party or contribute to the Access Fund or the Washington Mountain Alliance. Yes, I or somebody else might use donated hardware in a responsible manner but these two organizations have a program for the maintenance of crags with a coordinated eye on containing climber impacts, maintaining relations with land managers, and safety.

[bellemontagne]

Don't forget the American Safe Climbing Association . Recently the ASCA made funds available for bolt replacement at Smith (among MANY other locations).

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

Speaking of which, Smith Rock hero/villain (depending on which side of the fence you stand) Ryan Lawson is looking for someone to take over the SR-BRO (Smith Rock Bolt Replacement Organization, basically the Smith Rock arm of the ASCA, more or less) and spear-head bolt replacement efforts, as he no longer lives nearby. He's offering to give (GIVE!) his Hilti w/2 battery packs to a qualified and motivated bolt-replacer if they take the position on.

 

Food for thought for those of you who fancy doing some goodness at the Park ...